On One Pompino owners...

Nice gnome spokecard!

Couldn't sleep. Ta da:

That V4 version in Matt Raw, is there actually any kind of clearcoat on it or is it really raw? A really raw frame would be a PITA to maintain I suppose...

Clearcoat ofcourse..

Clearcoat ofcourse..

Nice! Are the decals covered by the coat?

That V4 version in Matt Raw, is there actually any kind of clearcoat on it or is it really raw? A really raw frame would be a PITA to maintain I suppose...

It's a flat/matte clear coat. Looks pretty nice actually.

I bought a Stronglight JP 400 JIS Bottom Bracket 107mm and had it installed at a local cycle surgery at the end of feb. Its already creaking...i ride every day but I would have thought it should be creak free for quite some time....

Is it likely to be a dud bb or the bike shop putting it in badly?

It's pretty annoying to happen so soon after building a new bike up.

Could there have been a calibration issue with the torque wrench you used to check the bolt tightness after the first few hours of use?

Also JP400s are shit. The ones with plastic cups are more shit than the ones with steel cups, but they are all shit. If you'd done your research first, you'd now be another happy Shimano BB-UN55 customer :-)

They happened to be on sale at the same time as I bought the frame, seemed like a good idea at the time, not so much now.

Re: the torque wrench bolt tightening, do you mean the crank bolts? I have kept an eye on them as the bike has settled in, would they cause a creak if slightly loose?

May try my luck at the bike shop and see what they say as they put it in...if not, will prob do as you suggest.

Re: the torque wrench bolt tightening, do you mean the crank bolts? I have kept an eye on them as the bike has settled in, would they cause a creak if slightly loose?

Yes and yes, that's the most common cause of creak from square taper cranksets.

Some shops haven't caught up with the programme and are still installing square tapers dry, this means they don't go as far onto the taper for a given clamping load, which means the normal force on the interface is reduced. If everything is greased (tapers, threads, bolt head underside) and the bolts are tightened to ~24Nm (for M8 crank bolts), they should be quiet.

BB units with plastic cups can get creaky at the interface between the cartridge housing and the plastic cup, because the plastic creeps, but cranks moving on the tapers is a much more common cause of noise emanating from the BB.

24Nm for square taper?

That's based on normal tightening torque for medium strength M8 screws. Shimano SI for the FC-2200, for example, suggests 35-50Nm, which would only be possible with very high strength (12.9 grade) screws. Obviously if you have the manufacturer's service instructions to hand, use those rather than generic numbers.

Fair enough. I've always gone with the manufacturers recommendation for the chainset. It'd have to be a pretty poor quality M8 bolt not to take at least 35Nm. I'd expect all but the very cheapest to take 50Nm tbh.

Totally agree with your comments regarding lubrication of bolts and tapers. Blows my mind when I see people on here actually singing the praises of fitting crank arms dry and suggesting that lubricating the tapers might cause the crank arms to "slide off". Insane!!

The mechanic at my LBS told me to do just that recently. I did, then after about a week took them off and greased them up.

Dunno, I installed my square taper campag stuff dry and it's never creaked. I'm hardly light either.

We all used to do that in the olden days, then somebody who knew what they were talking about (probably Jobst Brandt) turned up on rec.bicycles.tech and showed us the error of our ways.

Screw threads and tapers are both inclined planes, on reflection it's astonishing that we ever thought they should be treated differently.

gonna get trp cx8.4 or 9 mini v's for the pomp i'm building.. can anyone recommend a brake lever that'll work? Sram s500?

Mini V's should work with standard road levers I think. That's the benefit of mini V's over normal V's.

Indeed they do. I'm running cheapo tektro mini-Vs with S500 levers

IIRC 8.4s and 9s have a slightly different pull rate depending on if you've got campag shimano or SRAM levers

I asked a guy who had a set of used CX9s on ebay if hed do 40 BIN which he did change the listing too but didnt bother to tell me and someone else snapped them up

.<

I almost bought those. Had it not been for £5 posting on the original listing I would have bid.

IIRC 8.4s and 9s have a slightly different pull rate depending on if you've got strong or weak fingers

ftfy

The difference between 8.4 and 9 is about the same as change of cable pull of the latest Shimano levers relative to the old industry standard, but which way you mix and match them is down to personal preference. In theory, SRAM/Campag levers + CX8.4s should feel about the same as Shimano levers + CX9s, so the direction in which you move is different if you swap over.

Anybody in the market for some Mini-V, I give you good price on BNIB Shimano BR-R353 :-)

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