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• #8452
Usually tbh caused by folk putting wheel in and the rotor going behind pads and taking chips out of the ceramic material (or causes a stress fracture point)
To be fair, I think I’ve done this at least a couple times.
I have chucked the BB7s on for now.
Can’t remember if I said but I have an mt200 brake which I could take the caliper from but one is bh90 hose and the other is bh59 or whatever it is so not sure how the compatibility works on that?
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• #8453
Hose only affects the barb needed if you trim it down.
Caliper will be fine.
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• #8454
Woo!
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• #8455
Although Shimano recommends new barb and olive when a swap is done, reusing the existing one usually works 99.9% of the time.
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• #8456
Any recommendations for pads for TRP Spyres? Will be used 99% on roads if that makes a difference.
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• #8457
Shimano B01s works well and cheap as chips too.
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• #8458
Cheers Beagle! They sound like a winner.
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• #8459
Better than Tektro and Aztec shits yo!
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• #8460
B03S now innit, 40% better wear until they update them to B05S
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• #8461
I've had no issue with Hope technically. They do rub a little bit every now and then but other than that, all good. Worth it for the stopping power; so much so that I'm considering a pair for my road bike (others are on a gravel bike).
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• #8462
Same here. Only used them for around 400km on the road bike with SRAM levers, but the braking feels so good I would happily put up with having to fettle with them every 6 months or so.
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• #8463
Depending on what mount and levers, Shimano has a good selection of 4 pots brakes.
From the non series MT420 to the XTR M9120.
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• #8464
Probably dumb question: Does anyone know if Rival AXS levers are compatible with the older rival hydro calipers? (Frame has postmount and is currently equipped with 11 speed rival hydro)
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• #8465
I'm not 100% sure but I think the new AXS move more fluid and aren't compatible with the old 11 speed calipers.
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• #8466
AXS levers aren't compatible with the old HydroR calipers. The are compatible with Level post mount calipers though.
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• #8468
How do I straighten a recalcitrant rotor?
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• #8469
Buy a new one
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• #8470
Was hoping for a MacGyver solution. Times are tight for a guy like me.
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• #8471
In that case, patience and a rotor tool or adjustable wrench. Make sure hub doesn’t have play, calliper is at least centred-ish, pads are fully retracted, and then go slow with the wrench on the rotor.
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• #8472
Take it to a professional
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• #8473
Are there professional rotor straighteners put there? It's easy enough to do with an adjustable wrench. Even easier if you use the old scoble hack of putting a white sheet of paper behind the caliper so that you can see the rotor wobble easier.
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• #8474
👌
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• #8475
👍
Hope rx4 I've seen lots of folk go to those and within a year or two, either seized pistons, or they are so utterly fed up of the noise (pad dependant). They also don't retract very well, so unless you have had frame forks professionally faced, and a better than new true ness of your rotor, they will rub constantly
Sram flatnounts I've had less issue with, but there are less of them in circulation