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• #6527
Sram hrd's I'm afraid :(
The stock pads are pretty good, just not excellent, trying to get that perfect brake feel and the Swiss stop advertisement is quite effective...
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• #6528
Different rotors helped a lots (with fresh pads).
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• #6529
That's good to know. I was leaning toward some of those prime disc rotors that look like race car discs, failing that I'll go Shimano.
Is there anything wrong with bedding in new pads on new rotors?
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• #6530
Nothing, just old pads on new rotors.
I’d recommend something like the shimano RT86, their rotors have a slightly shorter lifespan but found them to be more predictable.
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• #6531
Uberbike race matrix. Nice but not pricey.
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• #6532
+1 -uberbike pads are great, i use them on all my bikes
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• #6533
Interesting, thanks for the recommendation!
I tried a paid of Uberbike semi-metallic pads for my hope mtb brakes and found them a little disappointing, but I will give these a go on your recommendation
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• #6534
I don't think that's the issue, if anything it'd have to come lower, but I am not using any washers at the moment, so I can't lower it.
I think it's just the pads not being aligned with the rotor. Anyone has successfully used one of these before?
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• #6535
Which pads are going to give me the best stopping power?
TRP Spyres and Ice Tech rotors.
I’ve never been too impressed with the stopping power so don’t mind spending more on a pad that’s going to stop me a bit better/quicker...
Thanks 😊 -
• #6536
The brake pads should naturally align themselves with the rotor, especially if you push them back in (as per, coincidentally, my comment above) and start again. I don’t what that tool would do that’s better.
It’s possible if your calliper seals or mounts or pads or whatever are shagged in some way it’ll temporarily align them better to shut them up for a bit.
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• #6537
My concern re-alignment is more regarding either the front or rear of the pads tipping in on one side or the other.
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• #6538
I’m using the race matrix ones from uberbike as was recommended for someone else just above. They’re good but naturally if they’re grippier, they’re softer and so they wear out quicker than others. But I’ve done 6 months through winter on them and they’ve a tiny bit of life left. Not a great expense even if they need changing every 6 months
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• #6539
I bought one on a whim, and used it after the bleeding process (not sure if it's supposed to be used during or after), but found that it didn't fit between the rotor and the pads.
The issue may well be that I don't know how to use it properly, but I didn't have any luck with it..
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• #6540
Ace sounds perfect. I don’t mind if I’m changing them every month if I stop frankly! Thanks! (It’s for this by the way)
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• #6541
Also found it pretty useless and fiddly.
Have gone through several combinations of pads and rotors until I got juin techs you to maximum power. Shimano everything was the best combo for me with trp compressionless housing.
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• #6542
Has anyone tried the IS to flat mount converter?
https://www.assolutions.ca/shop/adapters/flat-mount-adapter-for-is-frame/
If it’s any good it could mean I could go hydro more easily on my gravel bike (currently have IS on fork flat mount on frame)
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• #6543
Assuming you're going shimano just swap our the caliper for an MTB one, I'd go SLX.
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• #6544
I asked in LBS shop and got total blank expression then “probs wouldn’t work”
CheersSo Grx groupset with MTB SLX caliper up front?
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• #6545
Yeah, it works fine, I've done it for other people, when things get back to more normal and I get my job sorted properly I'm gonna do the same for my bike I think, might try GRX to 4 pot deore for the luls.
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• #6546
You serious +snottyotter Pffftttt... SLX/XT/XTR or go home... ;)
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• #6547
Regarding swapping front flat mount calipers to Post or IS:
the xtr caliper BR-M9100 uses the same pads as the flat mount calipers, if you want same pads front and rear. But a bit expensive... -
• #6548
Is there a forum favorite replacement for torx head bolts for mounts?
I hate torx -
• #6549
Or get the M9000 that uses the same G- (no fins) or J- (finned) as multiple generations of calipers from Deore up to XTR, along with a bunch of Tektro and Clarks calipers that seem to be licensed Shimano designs.
I've managed to get at least 2/3rds of the hydro-brake bikes in this household onto the same pad shape, which makes keeping spares in stock a lot easier. All but 3 of the geared bikes are Shimano 10 speed too, so I've got a spare chain and two packs of G03S pads that live in the van so they're ready if needed while away from home.
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• #6550
I tend to use the bolts that come with the calipers, which are normally 5mm hex except for a few Shimano ones that have been 4mm hex.
I have no complaints about T25 for rotor bolts.
I tried Swissstop, koolstop etc on both SRAM and Shimano, honestly go for the name brand and rotors (shimano rotor and sram pads work brilliantly too).