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• #5602
I like that my brakes squeal in the wet :)
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• #5603
oil on the road
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• #5604
Mine are noisy in the wet, only thing left to swap out is the frame, which I've faced, rear is worse than the front, both shut up after some noisy breaking until they get a bit wet on a long, clear stretch again.
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• #5605
Mine were squealing like a mad thing with the more minimalist stock clarks rotor. They were so loud I was afraid to brake, which defeated the purpose of having them somewhat...
I switched to chunky rotors, they'd been languishing in my parts box for maybe 5 years, stripped from an old entry level mountain bike which was destined for the tip, and they are much quieter now.
Disc brakes do not play by a certain set of rules. You just got to figure your ones out. As a rule, when it rains they will squeal a bit.
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• #5606
Thanks!
Pad_Option G02A-Resin, G03S-Metal
Pad_Standard J02A-Resin, J04C-MetalI've got this as brake pads options. I think I have the j02a at the moment.
Any reason to switch to metal? What's the hive mind on metal vs resin? I've been commuting in the wet and am heavy at 90 kg.
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• #5607
In the wet, most brakes are noisey, it’s the water vibrating between/around the pad and rotor
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• #5608
New rotor / pads fitted and bedded in on Sunday. Squealed on Monday in the rain - stupidly loud.
Stripped everything off yesterday, cleaned, refitted, torqued on and lined up.
Possibly what Amey said - although how it ends up on the rotor I don't know. Possible that you wrecked your calliper and its leaking fluid. It only takes a tiny amount to escape and ruin a set of pads.
In the wet, most brakes are noisey, it’s the water vibrating between/around the pad and rotor
My brakes aren't screeching, bitches!
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• #5609
Yeah, I reckon they're as quiet as they're gonna be, it was more just to reassure that some noise is acceptable (if irritating).
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• #5610
Stick with resin pads unless you're going off road or down mountains.
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• #5611
Metals are way less susceptible to picking up contamination
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• #5612
Dunno about way, but yeah, noisier in general though. I'd say with all the pros and cons of both, if you're using them for commuting or general road stuff, the resin pros are more applicable.
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• #5613
My brakes aren't screeching, bitches!
Whats your pad rotor combo secret to this life of silent bliss?
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• #5614
Hope -fine
Trp squeal when wet but not for longYellow urber pads hyrd throughout
A bottle of isopropol alcohol clean rags
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• #5615
Whats your pad rotor combo secret to this life of silent bliss?
Being 65kg and not asking too much from my brakes I suspect.
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• #5616
He never goes fast enough to have to brake hard.
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• #5617
OK cheers pal [re bedding in advice]
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• #5618
Has mad bike skills so he doesn't need to brake.
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• #5619
Brakes r death
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• #5620
Just checked and have the metal ones. Can I just switch to resin with the existing rotors? Nothing on the rotors says I can't.
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• #5621
Yes. Might need to clean the rotors first and re-bed everything in
But I wouldn't bother assuming everything works now.
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• #5622
Wouldn't bother with changing?
Had no stopping power riding to work due to spilling chain cleaner on them. Ride home was better due to rain?? So I guess a proper clean should get them working again but might as well order some spare ones.
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• #5623
I always think a good sand and clean is worth it when changing pad types, if the pads were contaminated then definitely, clean until the clean rag stays clean to avoid wreaking your brand new pads.
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• #5624
good sand & clean did the trick. Extra pads incoming tho, another one for the parts bin.
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• #5625
I leave the rotor on the wheel/ bike and spin it and hold some emery cloth on the rotor and try not to lose my fingers, if you're worried about that, putting it on something flat and a sanding block is probably best. Afterwards get a clean rag and cleaner and keep cleaning it until there's little to no new dirt on the rag. Pads I do a similar thing (not on the bike) clean, sand, clean, clean, clean.
Yes, they work well... though I used the rear all the way to work thanks to the noise on the front!