Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

@umop3pisdn says they are about the same as shimano

I've just changed the other halves bike from really poor stock (Promax Render) to Juin Tech R1 and I'm very impressed. Took it out to bed them in and they are good, not up with my Rival hrd but would keep me happy.

Realise you probably want a comparison with spyres though.

Also did you follow a process to bed them in? Could explain the lack of bite but I've never used them.

Better now they've bedded in. But that's with road levers.

Pricewise Juin R1 and TRP HY/RD seem the same...so it's definitely an option.

Pricewise Juin R1 and TRP HY/RD seem the same

?

R1 are £150 a pair (including rotors), HY/RD £110 each (plus rotors).

Those are distributor prices, so you might find them cheaper elsewhere.

Got the R1s from eBay via Ireland for £125, you can get them direct for less but risk import taxes.

Ah, I was checking Ali Express.

Anyone had experience with both?

What made you choose them? over TRP. Need to look into how each works.

I've had a R1 on a disc front/fixed rear build for a few years so just have a good experience. They were cheaper and much lighter at the time.

They are also smaller, don't think I'd have got the TRP onto her bike, only a few mm clearance on the back.

Think they are originally race brakes for CX, have a smaller chamber Vs TRP so not suited to long Alpine descents. Super easy to adjust on the fly.

The problem with such brakes as the TRP Spyres is that while it is actually easy to step up, it is also easy to not do it correctly.

It's within the realm of possibility to get it set up nicely, in some batches of the Spyres, the pads doesn't sit straight in the calipers (not uncommon with mechanical disc, BB7 suffer the same issues as well as Shimano), sometime the frame's mount isn't faced 100% to allow the pads to hit the rotor 100% straight, also you have to make sure the arm on the calipers return almost fully and the pads as close as possible to the rotor (again the same on all mechanical brakes).

TRP (and Shimano) brakes come with resin pads to enable better modulation and reduced rotor wear, however a sintered pads (metal) offer a better bite, with the increase wear in rotor and less modulation, basically more grabby.

I'm afraid I have yet to tried a sintered pads on those Shimano/TRP/etc. set up, but can't imaging why it wouldn't work better when a sintered pads on road hydraulic offer a great bite.

Personally given how cheap rotor can be, I'd be happy to compromise the expense of rotor wear for more bites.

Someone mentioned Uberbike for pads, and think have been vouched for;

https://www.uberbikecomponents.com/view-product/Uberbike-Tektro-Draco-Dorado-Orion-Auriga-Aquilia-Sintered-Disc-Brake-Pads

Cheers. Definitely feels like I need to fiddle a bit more to get a feel for what's possible.

I've heard sintered pads squeal a lot.

I took my bike to my LBS and they seemed to think this was the best it could get with mech discs.

I feel everyone went disc brake mad way too soon.

@snottyotter, how do I check other than buying them and see if they work?

@amey, about the same braking power or about the same size?

I've heard sintered pads squeal a lot.

They are louder than resin pads, granted, but I have not had one squealing in my experiences, they're more likely to squeal in the wet, but die down once moisture got burn off the rotors.

I'm afraid I cannot comment on what the LBS said as it is not my place to do so, especially the fact I have no idea how it set up without looking at it.

As for everyone went disc brake mad, I think a lots of company simply doesn't realised it need to be carefully build for road bike, for instance when road disc appeared 10 years ago, they use normal brakes housing which made brakes like the Avid BB7s felt horribly spongy, now with decent compressionless housing like the Yokozuna Reaction, they felt massively sharper and bite better.

sintered pads (metal) offer a better bite

That's what I understood, but then I found this, which says the opposite.

Yours sincerely,

Confused of Suffolk.

You wanna have a look at my disc brakes? :)

I'm building up my next bike. It's supposed to be a travel bike so was going to go with spyres as I don't want to fiddle too much while in the middle of nowhere.

Dura-Ace 9000 compressionless might be a good compromise between Jagwires and Yokozuna?

Sintered squeal at low speed/start of your ride but it'll disappear once you've ridden and braked a bit.

That article is a little confusion since it claim resin have more bite/power than metal.

I did a quick search for similar article which said differ, MBAction said that the pads have an on/off feel that achieves maximum power quickly as the lever is applied, Merlin said that sintered offer lots of power at the ultimate top-end power, whether resin have less, lastly, here is a chart showing a good break down of each Shimano's disc pads;

Basically it's saying that resin offer better modulation, but sintered offer better power, also for those who wish to have a quieter brakes, a finned sintered mean it can cool down quicker to reduce chance of squealing due to heat build up, almost as quiet as a non-finned resin even.

Lastly (again), there is a possible reason why some people says resin is better, is that there are disc rotor that are resin-only, meaning it work best only with resin pads due to the softer material.

TL:DR; our understanding is correct, that article you posted is a wet sausage.

At this point I would urge people never to use resin-only rotor with metal pads, not only they'll squeal a lots but will eventually get warped too, when it cooled down, it become a nightmare to true.

I found this out the hard way when a customer came back complaining about his rotor (that he brought and fitted) making lots of noise, showing wear and severely warped within 2 month of riding.

Dura-Ace 9000 compressionless might be a good compromise between Jagwires and Yokozuna?

My understanding that the Dura-Ace 9000 housing is a low compression housing on account that it use helical strain construction (Jagwire use linear strain with kelvar to prevent it from splitting under compression).

Because it's designed to work with their rims brakes, a compressionless housing would mean that the rims brake will be more on/off than offering a good range of modulation.

I'm building up my next bike. It's supposed to be a travel bike so was going to go with spyres as I don't want to fiddle too much while in the middle of nowhere.

I'd look into the Juin Tech R1, basically like a HY/RD but without the auto adjust for wear, if the pads travel get too much, just turn the barrier.

that article you posted is a wet sausage

Ha!

Thanks for checking it out so thoroughly Ed, much appreciated.

I don't have first hand experience of either, but I've shortlisted R1 over HY/RD.

The only advantage HY/RD have over R1 (that I could find) is the auto-adjustment of pads and I'm not too fussed about that: it's nice to have, but you have to adjust rim brakes so it's not like you're losing anything.

I also seem to remember reading a number of reports of people having problems with HY/RD: they seem to be sensitive to which lever is used if I recall correctly.

Whereas I've only read good things about R1.

But mostly it's the price: I can't see that HY/RD justify the £70-odd (excluding rotors) difference.

I think bite and power are being confused, resin pads will have more "bite" so the beginning of braking will feel sharper as they work from cold better and are softer, sintered have more power, in that they'll slow you down better, especially from higher speeds. So resin better for sick endos, sintered better for flying down big hills.

Also hy/rds are shit, or at least ugly and a pain in the arse. Swapped my spyres (that worked pretty well) out for juintech R1s about a month ago and am very impressed. Juintech also now do another similar brake that'll take new finned pads, but it's a bit more spendy.

The R1 adjustment is super easy too, just turn a little dial every now and then.