Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

If you do rebuild them, get some threadlock on the adjusters. But I'd have thought it's more general set up making them bad to use, and if everything's been degreased then they're either contaminated from using the wrong thing, or need bedding in from using the right thing, so can move the wheel with the levers pulled.

Haha no. I started reading that and got as far as this:

"Spyre is susceptible to water ingress that causes friction in the operation of the brake over time due to the ball races becoming corroded. Salt and mud is an issue. I think most cable disc callipers suffer the same. Certainly had more than one BB7 seize on me due to lack of maintenance.

I was probably the first to experience the issue with the ball bearings coming out of their cams due to excessive pad wear that led to the recall. At that time I contacted TRP for a guide for stripping the calliper but was informed there was not one."

Cantilevers can be easily cleaned and serviced in a few minutes time. The above passage confirms to me that discs are not what I want any more. I'm not saving any money on rim wear, I could have replaced my rims twice with the amount I've spent on pads and cables trying to get these to work. Not to mention the time wasted. rant rant rant...

I use this, exactly as recommended. It's more money down the drain.

I may still be doing something wrong, but I've spent too much time on it now. My LBS who are normally pretty good mechanics gave the bike back after sevice with the cables tightened, travel reduced, the pads rubbing, and stopping power unchanged.

#DBAD

Isopropyl alcohol is a fair bit cheaper, but nevermind. Whatever makes you stop. 😚

I know you've given up but there must be something fundamental wrong with your setup for them to be so bad. Have you definitely got the correct levers I.e. road pull for road brakes etc? If you have mtn levers on road brakes you could this sottnof thing.

Also my experience of spykes is good, I ran a pair for about a year with only minor tweaks.
:Edited as made no sense!!!

Still pretty sure they were as I sold my brand new SLX for 35, but anyway 60 for Deore is crazy money!

I'm after a single Spyre caliper if you're getting rid....

What levers are you using it with? Shimano works best, Campagnolo badly.

Sure, will be available FREE sometime after June, when I've saved up for the next build :)

And yes, I'm running shimano levers.

wondering if it is winter abuse but ... my lever through seems adequate (if a bit short) can engage the brakes quickly but my stopping power is absolute shite.

cleaning? i use that disc brake cleaning stuff.

new pads? if so, which ones?

Does the engagement arm fully retract when you let go or are you using cable tension rather than the pad adjusters to get the pads near the rotor?

with the rear it seems like the arm doesn't go back fully, so if i don't put a bit of tension on it then there is this 'dead space' during lever pressing....

does that makes any sense?

Yeah, strip it down and clean and grease everything, my secondhand ones had a bit of this, a few mm ain't the end of the world but you should have them retracting as much as possible.

loosen cable off the brakes, and move the spring with your hand.

If it felt like there's power to spring back, then the cable housing may be the culprit and need overhauling.

If it feel notchy and weak, go with that snotty otter advice.

My disc brakes are incredibly squeaky (Avid BB7). Not ridden the bike for a while so there's a chance they're covered in dust (the bike was in the corridor whilst a load of building work was going on). Is it likely a wipe over with alcohol will cure it or something else I need to be looking at? They stop me fine.

You just diagnostic it, give rotor a good clean, take pads out to clean and sand down, then bob your uncle.

If they stop you fine I'd just ride them until they stop being squeaky #lazyness

Cheers. I think I'll give the rotors a wipe over but given they're a bit finicky to set up I may not bother taking the pads out to start.

Been messing around with these spyres and not impressed, anyone know of a flat mount cable disc brake that has a bit of bite?

In comparison My bb7 road on the cotic is great but no flat mount option

Cant speak for flat mount but my post mount spyres have been excellent the last few years. Plenty of bite if set up correctly.
What pads/levers/housing are you using?

Properly bed in?

Shimano 105 STIs 5800
Trp Road Compressionless housing
swapped the original spyre pads out for sintered which are better but still rubbish

@snottyotter

• Yeh appreciating the bedding in thing and know that will improve, but it feels much more like a lever travel issue, the bite point is so far through the travel it feels weird.
  
  

We have a couple of bikes in the shop I work in with spyres as stock and its the same problem on those. I've set it up by preloading the actuating arm before clamping the cable and that helps a bit but still not great

Arm should be able to fully retract, although do get rid of any cable slack with the barrel adjuster, then use the pad adjusters to get pads nice and close to rotor, bite should be nice and soon. As for bedding in its good to do so purposefully, with freshly sanded or new pads and rotors go really fast then brake really hard without quite stopping or locking up the wheel (weight back helps) a fair few times for each brake.

Despite the good intentions this is exactly what I've gone for.