Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Yokozuna Reaction housing really.

It work fine on my build, providing the mount is faced perfectly and the pads sit in the calipers properly.

Campag shifters and Spyres do not work at all very well. They just do not pull enough cable, and there's no alternative cable routing/mods you can do that solves the problem. I would not bother. They work, but compared with Shimano levers they're shite.

The main problem is you have to run the pads so close to the rotor to get them to bite, and then they often don't retract fully once you've released the lever, and hence they drag on the rotor. I think part of the problem is the pad adjustment screws aren't indexed, they're just free to screw in/out as they please. The only thing stopping them is some blue loctite.

I recently bought Juin Tech R1 calipers and these are better with the Campag levers. Braking is still not mega, although I they're on the stock pads and I could do with setting them up properly. However, compared to the Spyres, they're a dream.

I have 140mm RT-99 rotor if anyone wants? £20? Hardly used before I went 160mm in the front.

Centerlock obviously, I am not an animal.

You can bring that over with the derailler...

2nd dibs

i sold it to @motoko as he was desperate ..

@PhilDAS collect it and drop the saddles?

DTM.

soz, I avoid going above the river these days :P

Sounds good!

That just means our barricades are working. Good to know.

Right, the Deore BR-M515 pads I've put in my Spyres are not working out too well - the noise, particularly in the wet is atrocious and nothing like the original pads that came with the brakeset.

I did bed them in and I have used Muc-Off disc cleaner, but it does nothing.

My current plan is to take them out at the weekend, pop them in the workbench and use a flat file to remove a layer of material, and also properly clean the rotors again. Then take them out and bed them in once more.

If that doesn't work, I bought these as they claim to be TRP, but they look very off-brand. Either way, maybe the different compound will work more nicelier with the Spyre rotors: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122137898789

Anything else I need to think about?

Give it all a clean like you say, but just use some emery cloth, not a file, can give the rotors a quick once over too, I usually spin the wheel on the bike and try not to remove my fingers.

Good tip - I'll see if I can get some.

I'm pretty new to disc brakes, and the Tiagra/HyRd setup on my CdF is really bugging me. The front seems to work perfectly - responsive, good feel, easy endos etc. but the rear is ridiculously soft. Applying the brakes as hard as I can from the hoods only causes me to glide to a leisurely rest and I can only just lock up the back wheel into the feeblest skid if I use the extra leverage of braking from the drops.

I've followed all the setup instructions on the TRP youtube channel a hundred times over... things like undoing and retightening the calliper while the brakes are pulled etc. and I've tried @edscoble's trick of placing a phone behind the brakes to make sure they are correctly aligned but nothing seems to help. The cable housing is the same housing that came otp from Genesis but googling suggests it's trp's compassionless [I'm leaving that autocorrect in there...] housing, and the pads were replaced recently with Shimano resin pads that should be ok and have barely any wear.

Is re-bleeding the rear the next thing I need to do, and is it a faff? Is there anything else I can or should check first?

Are the pads moving when you pull the lever?

Is there any delay between pulling lever and pistons moving? If so, then you might need to bleed, if not, it doesn't sound like a bleed issue, maybe a lever throw issue or dirty rotors?

"pads were replaced recently with Shimano sintered pads"

How recently? Were they bedded in properly?

Take pads out, sand lightly with 1000(?) sandpaper, clean rotor with Isopropyl alcohol, put pads back in, test

or ride in the rain and brake a lot, sometimes helps with dirty rotors

after that yes try to rebleed the caliper.

Your description could sound like a air bubble acting as a cushion in the caliper

Is there any delay between pulling lever and pistons moving?

It's a little bit hard to say. Even with the phone screen trick it's a little difficult to see but I'd say that if there is a delay then it seems small. If anything the pads sit fractionally further from the rotor on the rear but I thought HyRd callipers were supposed to adjust this automatically.

"pads were replaced recently with Shimano sintered pads"
How recently? Were they bedded in properly?

See ninja edit :-). Resin pads.

Pads were replaced a couple of months ago but I haven't used the bike that much. They have probably covered about 100km of commuting and 4 cross races. I didn't do anything specific to bed them in but presumably they would have bedded in by now even through general use. Visual inspection reveals there to be plenty of material on the pads still (especially on the back!).

I'll try cleaning the pads and rotors and see if that helps.

Were you able to push the small screw in on the rear when brakes is not engaged?

Do you mean the "lever arm lock knob" (circled)? If so, then yes, I can push this in and tighten it easily when the brake is not engaged, there is also no slack in the cable.

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Just confirming as this enable the auto adjust for wear, if not able to push the screw in, it get softer and weaker.

Thing about HY/RD I found if that if the pads have been spread out too much, then it end up feeling softer.

Take wheel off, squeeze levers hard then put wheel back on, I find even squeezing hard wasn’t enough to push the piston out but do keep an eyes on it.

Guys. I have utfs and had no luck with this query that I originally posted in the Cannondale owners thread. I recently was lucky enough to take delivery of a lovely CAAD12 that comes with Dura Ace 9100 discs.

Slight annoyance - mine got shipped with European/US orientation brakes (maybe because it was shipping to Spain, though it was through a friend at a UK bike shop??). Does anyone know how tricky it is to swap the hoses over? Is it a matter of just undoing the bolts at the lever end and swapping, or is there re-bleeding etc required? The hose should be long enough for a swap as I will also be dropping the stem a fair bit.

Suggestions are that tilting the bike so that gravity helps me might avoid a re-bleed. Any other suggestions and tips?

I was under the impression that the olives were single use, so if you needed to reorient them you'd have to get new olives. Do the current hydro lines have enough spare length in them to actually be swapped over?

You said it, just undo it and swap it round, do it carefully to prevent too much drippage.

Plus, it's not gonna pour out when you undo it, know how you can hold water in a straw by placing your thumb at the top? ditto with the hydraulic.

Lastly, they should usually come with what look like barrier adjuster on the hose, those are for easy swapping.