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Certainly more effective that the alternative. Wins all round.
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If the old pads were worn and one of the pistons was a bit sticky, the other one could move far enough for the seal to be ineffective. Normal pad spacers are a little thinner than a pound coin, but as they sit in the caliper slot the pistons can't come further out than 1mm from the centreline.
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Dont think that's the case, they are as good as new pads as I put them in a month prior to the Euros. And with the coin spacer, it was pretty much dead center.
Since we are on the subject matter, I won one of these at one of the polo tourneys and gave them away! http://www.wiggle.com/birzman-protective-front-fork-spacer/
:(
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Possibility 2, during the "free" bit at the start of a Shimano lever stroke, the valve between the master cylinder and reservoir is open. If your reservoir level was quite low and the seal at the reservoir port is better than the caliper seal, the pressure difference between ambient (inside the reservoir) and the lower pressure of the hold (higher than atmospheric at altitude, but lower than sea level) could force a little fluid past the caliper seal during a flight with up to 2 hrs cruising.
Don't know enough physics/engineering to calculate the likely seal leakage for a given pressure difference though.
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Might be but rode yesterday and today plus a session of polo and all is fine.
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Has anyone found the Shimano calipers very difficult to align when first set up with no rubbing?
The pads don't seem dead centre in the caliper but I'm not clear how to shift them, so I can't get a clear alignment. Any tips welcome - I don't know whether just to ride and let wear sort it out (as it's only a slight rub) but that doesn't seem like the best way to go
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Spread the pads, centre the caliper, pull the lever a few times then fine tune caliper.
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Thanks - struggling with how to fine tune the caliper with the shimano ones, is the problem. The only means of adjustment seems to be unbolt the calipers from the frame and try and rebolt with a slightly different alignment, but that doesn't fix the alignment of the pads in the caliper which feels fixed.
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If the pads are in correctly they should be aligned to the caliper, then, as you say, unbolt the caliper just enough to move it side to side and look through it onto a light surface and gradually tighten each bolt with it held in the right place, I find giving it a spin and listening helpful too with the final adjustments done with one bolt tight enough to not really move and adjust the other, then swap and tighten.
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OK ta - that's more or less the approach I've taken, glad I'm not missing anything then!
It just seems odd as looking at the caliper, the pads don't seem to sit in the middle of the gap (i.e. the rotor almost touches the caliper body on one side, when its roughly centred between the pads). I have it so there is almost no noise and it's not stopping the wheel spinning, I guess the tiny amount of contact will stop with a tiny bit of use now.
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Bleeding latest shimano hydraulic road brakes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wHesMliu40
at 4:56 there is a bleed funnel adapter - where can i get one?
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Fucking awesome
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Disc brakes nicely lined up and work well spinning wheels forwards, spin the wheel backwards and they make a god awful metallic grinding noise. Why the hell is that?
Not an issue obv as I don't ride backwards much, just curious. Thought it was my dynamo hub but realised it's both wheels -
Go get some isopropyl.
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Anyone know anything about disc brakes?
Posted by
@Sanddancer
Was traveling with the bike last week, fine on the flight out and not so fine on the flight back. Had an improvised spacer (pound coin) between the pads to keep the spacing in the event that the lever is squeezed while the wheel is out.
Didnt notice that the inner piston leaked at the seal and only noticed it once I rode the bike - squealing under braking, brake loss etc... Touched inner side of rotor, confirmed that's there's a thin layer of oil, nothing on the outward facing side. Ditched pads, sprayed rotor with brake cleaner and wiped down caliper with rubbing alcohol put new pads in and all good now. Didnt even need a bleed.
What I think happened was that the lever must have been squeezed quite hard (probably when they chucked the bike when loading/unloading. This is with the lever removed from my bars and hidden (+ zip tied) in between the spokes of the wheel.
Anyone experienced something similar before?