Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

I have the Force version, after 1700 miles the plastic cable clip in the right shifter has busted through normal use. Make of that what you will.

hmm .. surprisingly Apex 1 is cheaper and lighter.

not flat mount

They're great.

When playing with them in the shop, they felt a bit lacklustre, but does have a nice bite, but when riding out on the road, it felt great.

Need to adjust the reach to reduced the amount of play.

you are fault here, for not selling me those compass brakes #BuyerRevenge

You can run a 1x set up with Shimano. I've only had chain issues in really, really thick mud, i.e. off road in December.

rotors .. I weigh 63-65kg. Would I need 160 front and 140 rear? Think beddlestead with flytipping at the bottom or the sharp turn into pilgrims on a wet day. Tyres will be Kojak.

Not sure if this is the right thread for this but I'm thinking about having two sets of wheels to swap in and out for different types of rides (on aa disc brake bike).
I was wondering how practical is this?
If they're different hubs will I need to adjust the brake callipers?
Will having two cassettes (all be it the same type and ratio) be an issue with chain wear?
And the same with brake rotors, will there be any problems there?

I'm a bit heavier than you and have 160 front and 140 rear. It gives ample stopping power for me.

I understand it's best to have the same hubs and rotors on both wheels to avoid any issues in the differences in spacing and rotor mounts.

ta very much

I was wondering how practical is this?

Lots of people do it. It's easier if your hubs, rotors and cassettes are all the same, but even buying the same models doesn't guarantee that because Tolerances.

At least with post mount brakes it's easier to adjust.

Chain wear...well you know the answer there. Whatever is the least worn gets worn down fastest in the situation you describe. A worn chain will wear an unworn cassette, and a worn cassette will wear a worn chain. Until they are balanced.

You can get wheelsets with 6 bolt rotors pretty close, with some of these:
Syntace Disc Rotor Shims 0.2mm

hope 1mm, 2mm, 2.5mm

Separate shims per bolt is more fiddly to fit but should be a lot easier to find and cheaper to buy.

They should mark the thickness on those though, given the space is available.

What's the current go to compressionless housing? Will be running Juin Tech brakes with Ultegra 6800.

Edit: Yokozuna it is.

Anyone had any experience with the new Shimano centre lock rotors - is it worth buying the fancier ones, or will the cheaper ones suffice?

Sram Force 22 Hydro.

What's a good deal on the shifters/callipers only?

Would be prepared to buy a full bike and strip if it makes it cheaper.

Depends, for commuting and riding in the UK, I'd say the normal ones are fine. If you're going to be doing lots of descending, the Ice Tech ones are better. Ice tech will need replacing more often though, and if you're going to using them on busy dirty roads it might not be worth the extra money.

Just binned a pair of worn icetechs - to be fair they had survived a couple of trips to the Alps and many many Surrey / Swinley jaunts.

Thank dude!
I didn't know these existed. This might solve my problem.

Flat mount calliper- replacement bolt. Easy to come by?

These look like they are the same type of bolt
Shimano cleat bolt
but without the safety thingabibob

Looking at disc options and would prefer full hydro but coming up against limited options and high £££ for SRAM, so alternative is buying a 105 hydro group and I hate shimano levers.

TRP HyRd seem like the lesser of two weevils if a bit of a compromise-anyone using them?

looking to build up a blingy wheelset for my caaddisc. going to get some light bicycle rims but need some hubs. wanted bling but chris king and tune quite expensive (even more so as exchange rate is sooo shit). alternatives? or best middle of the range..? i am sad hope dont do a disc road hub

DT SWISS 240

They're pretty decent for what they are. They don't have the full feel of hydros, but unless you spruce out, you're kinda stuck.
SRAM shifters are no less bulky than shimano. Lever profile on the hydro's is more square. They sit better on compact drops than traditional. Shimanos just go with everything. Their RS505 are actually superbly comfortable if fucking hideous.

I was prepared to spunk on full hydro at the right price but the HyRd's seem to capture a lot of the performance (or are at least cited as being a huge improvement on the full cable discs) and let me keep using regular road levers. Will need to invest in some good compression-less housing I guess though.

It's not just the bulk of Shimano levers I hate, I just don't like the fact that you shift with the brake lever and that it moves; I've only recently come around to Sram from Campag mostly because Sram also has a fixed brake lever and dedicated shifting paddle.

Anyway, time will tell now as they're in the post!