Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

The dirty secret of disc brakes is that this pretty much happens all the time.

Just that on MTBs nobody cared because they were having too much fun doing rad shit to care about the occasional ping and scrubbing noise.

You can set the caliper up perfectly, but as Ed says, you need to do it by eye, and it's massive faff.

Ok, I'll give it a go.

Need more arms... if only I was Tasmanian...

Couldn't see through the caliper properly so just adjusted based on how noisy the fucker was. Got rid of most of the rub.

Bear in mind, that sometime when you tighten the calipers, the washer will move it a little, so if it look straight now, it may not be after you have tighten it.

You can see it when you tighten it and see the body move very slightly, which make the difference between rubbing and not rubbing, the rotor is never 100% true, so you'll also need to do that by eyes too.

It's worse when you took the wheel out and depress the levers to bring the pads closer, which mean that the slightest the rotor is out of true by, it'll cause rubbing.

Got rid of most of the rub.

Sound like you simply need to true the rotor.

You mean hit it with a hammer?

You mean buy some DA caliper brakes?

@amey has hacked my account

Preferably with a screwdriver as leverage to bend it, but best to do it by hand.

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Rotor-Straightening-2011.html

No, I like how these stop. What I don't like is learning all the quirks to adjust them so they don't rub, squeal, rattle, etc.

aintnobodygottimefordat

reputation deployed

Going by sound works quite well, although I imagine not for Ed, but looking through is equally good, I find a light surfaced floor is enough if you're in a well lit room or outside. Easiest way I find to adjust is to tighten up one bolt a little, just with the long end of an allen key, then move the other side until quiet or by eye, then tighten that up the same, back off the other and do the same then evenly tighten up both bolts, maybe going back to the first if it moved a bit.

Going by sound works quite well, although I imagine not for Ed.

Indeed, two remedy I usually use for this, the usual smartphone (I have a white background on the lock screen for this), or simply putting my hand on the calipers and feel the little rub.

Easiest way I find to adjust is to tighten up one bolt a little.

I do that too, not something I recommend for obvious reason but I put a tiny dab of copper slip between the bolt and washer to allow the washer to stay put and not move the calipers.

I got one of this for rotor truing, works great

Got also some of this shims to adjust spacing between rotors and pads, but I'm quicker now without them

Filed a bit of the paint from the disc adapters and also the TRP Spyre's calipers, so contact (friction) between them was better and they moved even less while tightening. Really happy with the mech disc choice in both performance and maintenance, also the fear of not having enough braking with 140mm on the rear wheel (160 on the front) disappeared once I got my first 70km/h descent and was able to take the next turn just as I wanted to

I left the bottom tight, loosened the top a bit and moved it in the direction I thought it was off. Removed much of the noise so clamped it back down again before it had a second chance.

Just chucked a bb7 on the back of my mtb, old rotor that's been kicking about the garage, it's on an FSR Sharkfin as the bike doesn't have disc mounts...and it puts the Hope 4pot on the front to shame.

I've been anal about keeping the front rotor clean so I'm sure it's not contamination.

I have another bb7 coming along with some stuff I've bought and I'm really tempted to swap it out with the Hope.

im going to 160mm discs. denied it for too long but 140 isn't powerful enough for someone at 14 stone who rides in the mendips a lot

lightest/best post mount adapters? best non-shite discs in 160mm? not convinced by these ultralight discs, warp easily and absolutely eat through pads

160 both ends? Might be worth trying 160 at the front first... finding 160/160 a bit skiddy at the rear. Lighter rider but no doubt a heavier bike and probably more luggage...

i just dont think my rear is powerful enough, i can't skid with it - and i can't endo on the front either. unsure whether to attribute to rotor size or just the gappyness of them? they have been bled professionally (after a warranty return on the rear caliper)

if i want to change the rotors I am thinking I might as well go 160mm.... would like to hear people's thoughts

Fair enough. I'm using RT76 with standard Shimano pads in Spyres and now SLX calipers, seem to work well, picked them up for £12 each end.

14 stone

u wot m8! too many open open sandwiches and daim bars

i know mate. too many gurrrrt ciders

slx calipers work with the shimano hydro brifters?? did not know that

i have those RT76 rotors on my 29er. well good

No, full slx set up, bust shoulder so riding flat bars at the moment