Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Strange, they looks like normal housing (silver coils in transparent outers) and much softer/easier to bend

much softer/easier to bend

Which is why they're there: getting compressionless cable tight to the bar is a PITA.

I've fitted OE Shimano cables with that.

They're part of the Jagwire kit

Yeah, look good - keep em.

OK understood, thanks guys

Compressionless isn't that hard to bend, you just need to bend it by hand first to get its shape.

Rather than with your teeth like you do with regular housing?

I only do that with cantilevers.

Nice to see bike polo got a mention ;)

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/article/donchisciotte-disc-brake-guard-first-look-47261/

My front brake is obnoxiously loud when it even slightly damp. At the moment it a choice between pulling it and going deaf or not pulling and death.

I was going to have a go at fixing them during lunch. My plan is removing the disc and giving a good clean with acetone/isopropyl (whichever i can find in the cupboard). Removing the pads and giving them a light sanding then setting the entire caliper up again. Anything I've missed? Its a Spyre plus kevlar pads if that matters.

Take the rotor out and give it a good go with some washing up liquid and a fairly abrasive sponge

Your aim here to to remove all the brake bad residue that has built up. To bring the disc back to factory spec. I don't think you need isopropyl to do that.

Then bed the pads in again.

If you still get honkin' repeat but this time do some work on the pads.

Have a look at the pads, is it shiny and smooth?

Also, make sure both pads touch the rotor at the same time, if it doesn't, it bend the rotor and cause it to squeal.

Ive just upgraded/changed to a TRP Spyre on the back of my Day One for heel clearance.

Got the Spyre off eBay, removed from a new bike according to the ad and no reason to doubt that's true but the 3mm pad adjuster Allen keys and the barrel adjuster seem pretty loose, maybe not loose...easy to move?

Anyone else with Spyres, are your adjusters similar? Do your brakes rattle out of adjustment?

I've read that the grub scres for the pads are held in place with thread lock, and earlier versions perhaps didn't have enough on them
http://smutpedaller.blogspot.co.uk/2014/11/trp-spyre-disc-brake-long-term-review.html

Mine was easy to turn, but it didn't rattle, only problem that it get rough after a while.

Did you service it to get back the smoothness? Easy job?

Cheers, doesn't seem like a terminal fault, leave pad adjuster all way out, adjust with cable tension/barrel adjusters. Guess it'll mean I have to set caliper position more carefully to ensure both pads are equally far from the rotor though. Oh well, cross that bridge if/when we get to it, for the increase in heel clearance it's worth it.

Kinda, it's the bearing that got rough, cleaned it up and fit it together, work nice again.

For an idea of the increase in heel clearance...

I ride flat pedals and with slim trainers I'd hit the brake cable stop on the Promax caliper maybe once every 5 crank rotations. With chunkier footwear I had to move foot outwards on the pedal and/or ride with foot at an awkward angle. I took some different sizes of shoes while at work today and I reckon down to a size 7 you could still have had issues.

The promax would have been fine on old style ontop of seat stay brake mount but not with the brake mount inside the rear triangle.

Bit of a poor show since Genesis already have an oe deal setup for Spyre calipers as they fit them to the similarly priced CDF10.

Personally would suggest TRP Hylex as you have bar end shifters, their hydraulic calipers are tiny;

I seriously recommend you saving up for them if you don't get on with the Spyres, last brakes you'll need, and can be used with Shimano calipers if you like.

Yeah I would like to go hydro eventually, just not got money to do it just now.

Also, bb7 on my polo bike is ridiculously powerful and had some issues with leaky hydros on mtbs so happy with the cable discs at the moment.

They were shiney, I sanded them down a bit. I've still go squealy brakes today but not any where near as bad. The front feels very spongy compared to the rear and pretty slow to stop. I'm going to give it one more go before I give in.

Anybody know when the tiagra hydro group comes out?

FWIW in my experience I have not needed to take anything to my brake pads - except a bit of brake cleaner or soapy water. I've always killed off howling by bringing the rotor back to as close to factory spec as possible and then following the procedure for bedding in the pads and rotor.

It's inconsistencies in the thickness of the layering of brake residue on the rotor that causes howling - go for the source! Strip the residue off then apply a fresh, consistent layer by following the correct bedding in procedure.

Pour alcohol on the pads, and clean them as much as you can, once dry, sand as much as you can, until it look real nice and new again.

Then clean rotor properly too with alcohol.

Pads last ages, don't be afraid to sand a bit more than you think, they shouldn't look shiny at all, that's either an indication that you've been dragging your pads, or contamination.

Put on the back of the pads some thick grease, and use a saw for vertical or oblique grooves, don't go too deep.