Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

Is there going to be much difference between the "multipart"?? shimano rotors (not icetech)

and the "normal" style?

I've found they bend a bit less when hit with a polo ball, are they a touch lighter too?

My understanding is that the multi-part floating rotors (even the non icetech ones) will cool down quicker than the solid ones.

If you're after 140mm rotors, I can recommend the avid hsx floating rotors for a tenner apiece (reduced from fifty or so) from planet x.

Just a quick one, I noticed today I could hear the rotor brush through the pads (normal obviously) but I could hear them hit the sort of 'arms'? This is hard to describe. Almost sounded like it was hitting spokes but isn't, definitely the rotor. Is this normal? Something funky with the pad maybe?

Need adjusting.

I'm at my wits end with my front rotor. My front SRAM Rival hydro was running beautifully the other day, but this morning it is scraping and hitting the pads all over the shop. I spent an hour eyeing where the bends in the rotor were, truing them, then as soon as I press the brake it's back to square one. The caliper is properly aligned and tight, it just seems like the tolerances are so tight that literally anything other than a perfectly true rotor will hit the pads. Is this normal?

I've reset the pistons back, cleaned the pads, aligned everything. Still there will be one point that 'ting-ting-tings' through the pad. New rotor time? It's only 5 months old...

I've reset the pistons back.

Clean the pistons? could be sticky...

Did you bleed them recently, could be an overfilled reservoir?

Best way to do that? Pads out, pump piston til it pokes out and wipe with something very clean?

Never been bled, bought the bike brand new in September

Pretty much, usually use alcohol for this (mineral oil for Shimano and similar).

Lastly, check the clearance between the rotor's edge and the calipers, it might not be rubbing against pads, but the tinging could be rubbing against calipers.

Brill skills, will give that a go, thanks

SRAM

Aaaand we've found the problem.

Have you tried reseating the wheel in the drop out and doing the qr up tighter than tight? Assuming it's a qr wheel...

Yep, done all that, finger breakingly tight

Checked the screws are tight plus disc tab and fork isn't cracked?

The later is from abuse at polo but maybe worth a look?

http://velonews.competitor.com/2016/02/news/enve-issues-recall-on-carbon-road-disc-forks_395968

Nice

@Dammit I hope your fork isn't in this list.

Agreed. it's the custom painted forks where that's really gonna hurt

Not just the modification to run mudguard?

I've got a brake which is essentially a clone of the Hope Mono Trials, but closed and mineral. It's an IS mount and is natively 180mm

These pads:

I can't find a rotor with a wide enough track for the pads not to overhang the edge and also interfere with the rotor's arms. Any suggestions?

Shimano.

I'll measure when I get home but I think they have the other problem where the rotor carrier hits the caliper.