Polo bike geometry + addons

Pickering said he didn't think it worked well with vs too...

I think its better with a bendy noodle
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/flexi-noodle-/300864181839?cmd=ViewItem&category=27949&ih=020

I use a flexi on my V-brake. Saves the noodle from snapping when/if you fall off.

Adjusted the geometry I'm after since building my own. Thinking of getting Mielec to build it for me, not sure if he'll be able to make the dropouts for me so I may end up cutting them myself and sending them out to him.

Hopefully he can understand the image I've drawn up.

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effective top tube seems to be something they just dont understand.

even on the second frame i just sent them the effective top tube measurements and left the tt measurement blank. I think they just used that measurement for the actual.

Not sure if there's a way you should use the effective to calculate the actual while building or sutin....

Seems pretty clear but maybe give them actual as well and what angle you want it at.

Should I put in the actual tt or the BB-HT? I might discuss it with Ryan tomorrow if he has the time.

Why tell the frame builder the effective tt? Would he actually care? I would have thought the real tube measurements and angles would be what the builder wants? (At least when the builder is just building what you ask for)

ETT is easier to design around and takes a little maths jiggery pokery to make into a actual, when I did mine I wasn't too bothered by the actual and the top tube angle as long as the ETT was what I was after, I left the rest up to Marino.

You tell a frame builder the ETT.

You tell a welder the actual.

It's easier to tell them the effective TT as it doesn't change whatever the angle of the top tube. I want the drawing to be as comprehensive as possible without the chance of them picking the wrong number. Also I'm only giving c/c measurements as I don't know what tubing would be used.

I prefer a low TT. It means I can do barspinz yo.

2 drawings and I comprehensive set of annotations?

Rincewind gave him 3 drawings, he thought they were different designs!!!

He is a wizard, he must have mixed up annotations with incantations.

I've added a guide drawing next to it. I'll probably make a drawing of the chainstays to make sure I have the clearance for the tyre and the chainring.

Talking to Ryan earlier. "If they can't read a drawing why are they building frames?"

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I've added a guide drawing next to it. I'll probably make a drawing of the chainstays to make sure I have the clearance for the tyre and the chainring.

Talking to Ryan earlier. "If they can't read a drawing why are they building frames?"

My money is one you getting a double toptube with that one.

Next polo trend.

O'shane how tall are you? Cause your geo looks really like mine but even shorter.
This will looks dope!
(i suggest you to let more tube at the end of the seat tub, as your seat post gonna be long, more than 2,5 cm is a good security for a better rigidity (and if it breaks at the end, you can still cut it and make a new clean end). Mine goes around 8 cm i think.

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O'shane how tall are you? Cause your geo looks really like mine but even shorter.
This will looks dope!
(i suggest you to let more tube at the end of the seat tub, as your seat post gonna be long, more than 2,5 cm is a good security for a better rigidity (and if it breaks at the end, you can still cut it and make a new clean end). Mine goes around 8 cm i think.

is that a free wheel used as chanring?? wtf

is that a free wheel used as chanring?? wtf

Trials cranks, fixed at the rear, freewheel at the front.

Yes, Good for saving weight (lighter components, less theeths everywhere, shorter chain), but bad for Q factor ( Large space between pedals to get some balance in trial = bad position for knees to get speed while pedaling).

O'shane how tall are you? Cause your geo looks really like mine but even shorter.
This will looks dope!
(i suggest you to let more tube at the end of the seat tub, as your seat post gonna be long, more than 2,5 cm is a good security for a better rigidity (and if it breaks at the end, you can still cut it and make a new clean end). Mine goes around 8 cm i think.

About 5'11" iirc. Not measure in years.
I've built a bike recently using that geometry but shorter again in the top tube. The problem with that one is that I get toe overlap so on the drawing you're seeing there I've added 20mm which eliminates the overlap. Here it is - https://www.lfgss.com/post3518619-76.html I tend toy ride quite short bikes as I move around a lot on the bike. It means I can play the ball really close to the front wheel but then when I'm in a corner I tend to hang my butt behind the saddle, same when I hop.
The seatpost is a 350mm and it's well under the limit.

Max Power's thought on trail:

Trail gives you a clue (but doesn’t define) how much of a lever the ground has to your wheel. The more trail you have, the higher the so called righting moment gets. This is felt as a more “stable” steering. As the righting moment does not only depend on trail, but also on your HTA, there is no such thing as a perfect trail. Trail is just a value you can easily measure, other than the righting moment. Same trail with different angles will give you different forces.

I did some sweet trails today!

In your keks?

Geos

Rabbit Daughter
http://www.enciclika.com/blog/?p=13294

14
http://www.14bikeco.com/14-polo-bike-v-3.html

Joust
http://fleetvelo.com/fv/bikes/the-joust

Lobp discussions
http://leagueofbikepolo.com/forum/gear/frames/2013/03/10/q-for-you-geo-geeks
http://leagueofbikepolo.com/forum/gear/frames/2010/08/28/custom-polo-frame-geometry

It says on 14's website that the v3 geo was developed with us. It wasn't. The Cosmic x 14 geo is completely different to their v3 frame. I don't have it to hand but if you email 14 they will have it.

Good to know. Your blog says geo coming soon.