Fashion

My point was that this isn't a case of buying direct from the factory and saving on bloated marketing and branding costs as a result.

To a degree, but there is clearly a marketing saving and these costs are Chinese wages not US or Japanese wages.

Environmental costs are one thing, as is wanting to support your domestic market, but I really struggle with the fetishism attached to North American and Japanese workers making copies* of old designs*.

Bottom line I'm trying to buy less.
The only ethical capitalism etc.

*or "inspired by"

Wow, I really have opened a can of worms. My main sentiments were always that the worker is getting fucked over.

I haven't purchased anything from McCoy's in a while, but brands such as McCoy's, Warehouse and so on are all pretty transparent with their production. Not necessarily always where the raw materials come from (that's another topic), but the workers themselves seem happy. More of a craftsman and craftswoman vibe than a factory worker, IMO.

@Tenderloin all McCoy's stuff is made in Japan, other than their multipacks of tee shirts which are U.S. made. - at least that's how it always has been. Buzz is all made in Japan.

I've been buying a lot of Monitaly stuff because it suits the Southern California climate, but also because it's all made 20 miles away from where I live. Yuki Matsuda (also of Yuketen) is incredibly forthcoming about where his fabric is milled, where the raw materials come from and how his staff are treated. He makes stuff where it's most appropriate to make it. For example, he uses a factory in Chamula, Mexico to make traditional Mexican shoes and clothing. They asked for X amount of $ per item and he is paying them more than that because he wants them to make the best product they can and feel like they're being rewarded as such. He's also incredibly passionate about what he does which is a nice driver. I've heard him talk about his clothes and shoes multiple times now and it just makes me want to support the business. Yeah, you absolutely pay a premium for it but I am happy to do so.

Don’t think it’s a can of worms - think it’s a good discussion point.

I couldn’t find any info on the buzz rickson site which details where the clothes are made etc

Indeed.

You'll wanna look at Toyo rather than Buzz themselves. Along with Buzz they also own Sugar Cane, Sun Surf, and Tailor Toyo.

https://www.toyo-enterprise.co.jp/aboutus/

They also manufacture for Mister Freedom.

It's all made in Japan.

Sure this question has been answered a dozen times in this thread, but who makes a good Oxford button down shirt? I have some old ones from Albam, but they don't seem to make them anymore.

Anglo Italian or Mercer & Sons

or slightly cheaper - Gant https://www.gant.co.uk/mens-shirts/white-regular-fit-oxford-shirt/43469

Thanks. Anything else under £100 that isn't Gant?

Drakes outlet shop perhaps?

even the Brooks Brothers ones are like £150 which is bonkers. shirts are so expensive.

oh actually, this place is great https://bergbergstore.com/collections/sale-shirts Button down is poplin though, but you might find something you like.

I’ve got a decent off white one from ‘A days March’ which I will probably buy more of when I need one... actually they have a sale on...

https://www.adaysmarch.com/uk/shop/dyed-oxford-shirt-custom-fit-button-down-off-white

@t-v As @fredtc says Drakes outlet - £65 per shirt and buy three things and get a 4th free (?) something like that. They’re without doubt the best bang for buck shirt in London - the arms run a little long. I don’t know if the shop is open at the moment but the drakes saville row is, so assume it will be.

Universal Works? Though they seem to be doing everything but a standard light blue this year.

Anglo Italian stuff is so nice but so expensive

CC makes (made?) one in the UK which for £39.
No idea as to the quality.

Thanks all - really helpful.

If anyone is interested I have a couple of Community Clothing sweaters, brand new in packaging with tags. Only reason I am selling is because they are too small on me and I didn't return in the necessary time window. One XL lambswool navy v-neck and one XL lambswool grey crewneck. I think they are £59 new - happy to let them go for £40 each.

I find most CC stuff wears true to size, but these XL sweaters are more like L of M/L depending how loose you want your knitwear.

Hackett
John Simons
Old Town
et cetera

All this Bronson talk got me interested but how does their sizing work? Sleeves look short and chest very wide. Do you just pick what size number would be closest to your chest size in inches?

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this is going to land me squarely in the golf club thread, but I think the most important thing about oxford button downs is the collar. you have to have that curve -

they just look shit when they have these little collars with a button half way up the collar

the whole elegance of the shirt comes from the button causing that slight curve. Even without a tie it just looks so much better. Mercer does it best imo

Nope. Not golf thread material. You’re totally right. Another to look at is Kamakura. Beautiful roll on their collars too. But yeah, Drake’s factory is still probably the best bet.

100% agree re collar roll. I think Gant rugger do them well. I’ve got 6-7 shirts from them, all bought second hand for £10-£40. Some collars have been ironed flat (sad emoji) but most are good

Measure something you already have and go for the most similar size. Their stuff is pretty good, maybe a bit better quality than the bob dong brand.

I never knew that, but I can see it now you say it. I knew I had come to the right place for advice.

There aren’t many people who know more about botton-down shirts than John Simons, always worth seeing what he has in the shop rather than online.

I used to pickup Brooks Brothers shirts when visiting family in New York and they were well priced then, even when they opened up in London. For me, they used to make the perfect shirt and even had a deal with M&S in the 90s when they made some of their Oxford button-downs.

Recently I’ve bought some nice ones from Penfield and Woolrich Woollen Mills, but casual checks rather than more formal plain colours. J Crew occasionally do a nice one.

If you really want the best go to Nicholas Lynn aka thelastshirtmakerofsoho tailor made shirts

No longer in the market these days, James