-
• #8902
^This is the correct thing to do I'm afraid, but you could seal it up and see what happens, if the wall continues to have a damp spot that annoys you cut the pipe out then.
-
• #8903
Changed beds today. Got rid of the Ikea ottoman and made my own.
From this:
To this:
And finally to this:
I'm awaiting some American Ash to be delivered this week so I can edge it. Then I've got to sort out LEDs under the frame and some power strips.
-
• #8904
Uptown Saturday Night
is there enough support on the corners?
-
• #8905
More than enough. The weight of the wood alone (let alone the mattress) mean I can stand on one of the corners and it won't move.
-
• #8906
Ours isnt open its covered so not an issue. If you can get a pic for us then will be great. Ill send yu a PM
-
• #8907
One room at a time is my motto, while you're in there making a mess etc. Depends how long you can live without a second throne room but I'd be addressing those walls cause you're polishing a turd with that lumpy plaster.
Find out how deep that old pipe goes, remove as much as possible and fill it with 4:1 cement, a browning plaster then a skim of something fine, Gtec Easyfill Xtra has been my friend this week.I levelled, boarded and plastered the bay window this weekend, not glossy smooth but I'm definitely getting better which means less time with the sander.
1 Attachment
-
• #8908
No thanks.
LEDs will be connected to apple homekit so they can sync with the daylight alarm.
Power strips will just be fitted under the frame to connect chargers etc without cables all over the floor.
-
• #8909
Overbuilt Is Built Rightâ„¢
-
• #8910
That's strong enough for a shed base.
I see you chose internal brackets rather than just drilling through and whacking big screws the frame. Was it just aesthetics and ease of assembly that dictated this or was there a structural reason?
-
• #8911
I had the brackets in the shed already so that was part of the reason.
Strength was the other.It's not going anywhere any time soon :)
-
• #8912
If you haven't looked at them Philips hue light strips may suit you here. An open API so you can use a car of controls.
-
• #8913
Exactly what is being fitted.
-
• #8914
Yup. It'll probably be hue strips or at least ones with a hue compatible controller.
-
• #8915
Sorry for crossposting, but:
The building manager has asked us to vent our radiators. Mine are old cast iron ones without a regular air vent. Is it just a matter of taking a fitting wrench and carefully loosening this:
1 Attachment
-
• #8916
I would think so, crack the whatever it is - large bolt, stud, plug? wait whilst the air whistles out then when water starts to bubble out crank it shut again.
-
• #8917
I'm mostly worried that it will not seal again. Doesn't look like it's ever been vented that way - at least not since the former owner choose this lovely colour to go with the lavender walls and turquise cupboards...
-
• #8918
See above....
Basically I had them and not long screws so saved a couple of quid. Also helps keep everything square on the cross braces etc.
-
• #8919
I'm mostly worried that it will not seal again. Doesn't look like it's ever been vented that way - at least not since the former owner choose this lovely colour to go with the lavender walls and turquise cupboards...
You should have isolators/taps at the base of the rad, if the top vent fails to seal then isolate the entire rad, pull the vent plug completely and wrap it with tape/sealing gunk and reinstall.
-
• #8920
Basically I had them and not long screws so saved a couple of quid. Also helps keep everything square on the cross braces etc.
Did you fix it to the wall, or is the weight of the frame such that you can stand on the cantilevered corner and the rest won't move?
-
• #8921
No isolators or taps. It's an old single string central heating system. I need to call my plumber tomorrow anyway, so I guess I'll wait 'til I see what he suggests.
-
• #8922
Dang that thing must chuck out some BTUs, how do you control the temperature, by removing layers of clothing?!
-
• #8923
No isolators or taps. It's an old single string central heating system. I need to call my plumber tomorrow anyway, so I guess I'll wait 'til I see what he suggests.
Probably sensible, I reckon you'd be fine but better safe than sorry.
-
• #8924
The latter.
-
• #8925
Happy accident or planned that way? Looking at it I would think that my immense weight would cause the frame to act as a see-saw on the edge of the sub-frame, if I were standing on the corner.
That said, my bath doesn't do that - but it is 300kg.
I ended up filling it with some paper and then sealed it with caulk - that will make it waterproof, and stop the air flowing in.