Home DIY

nah that wont work with this:

fucking hell, that mings

I assume you've done a drug.

I actually went for this in the end, so glad I spent more on this rather than an ikea sink.

http://www.lussostone.com/basins-c2/lusso-stone-picasso-solid-surface-stone-resin-counter-top-basin-580-p35

fucking hell, that mings

Maybe attach a small paint pad/sponge to a stick that's long enough to reach to the base?
Or remove and dip into a large vat of paint.

You have a child, so changing a nappy is fucking super adult and not running away and going my god what has gone through you to create that stench from hell.

Double Lolz

I've got a plasterer to come sort some. Of. My. Shit. Out.

But I need an electrician to router the wires or whatever for light switches. And also a plumber to remover a radiator. Help plz.

Radiator removal is generally easy. Fitting a bottom bracket is rocket science compared to most radiators.

Ask the plasterer if they can competently do the wiring for you.

I have an extra standing in the attic. I know how much it weighs and I'm not dipping it into anything. Sponge on a stick sounds like it's worth a try and less messy than spraypaint.

Long story short I fell through the loft of my new gaff.

I need to replace the 3x4ft gap with plasterboard, easy, however I need to replace the shitty polystyrene ceiling tiles* and I cannot find them anywhere in that size. They are 12"x 12" and the only place that sells anything like that is the US.

I'd rather not get it skimmed as it will cost a lot more and it's only a year contract.

1. Get it skimmed
   
2. Replace the lot over the top because it hasn't been skimmed and it's probably hiding a host of issues.
   
   

What do you reckon?

*EA assures they are the flame retardant ones.

@Tenderloin @Airhead Got my speedheater yesterday - it's pretty much magic! I've given it a quick test on a door frame and the paint just fell off.

Back onto an access panel on the side of my bath. The previous one was grouted in to the surrounding tiles which is probably part of the reason why it was such a bugger to get off. I'm thinking silicone sealant so I can at least slice through with a stanley knife if I need access. Any other suggestions?

I fitted mine with keku clips and a healthy bead of silicone

Keku clips are your best option.

To seat the panel I need to place it in and then slide it across slightly. Can Keku clips cope with that?

Not really no, they have pretty tight tolerances. I think magnets are probably your best bet.
I started out with magnets but it ended up being too fiddly to fit them to my frame so ended up with kekus. If you need to slide alongside the sink/toilet or something I reckon magnets are the way to go.

Take a look at the products on offer from Sugatsune. They do some beautifully engineered push-push catches, removeable hinges, and so forth.

Was kidding about the dip.

Yup, I know I probably came across as a shill for this product but I love mine. I've spent 8 hours over the last 2 days stripping a pair of sashes to the wood, including removing the glass (similar 17 pane pattern to the photo I posted in this thread).

I'm starting to hold it a little further from the wood and waiting a bit longer for it to bubble up as it's easier to remove the sticky 100 year old primer and there's less melting smell.

We should have organised a group buy.

Is there any indication that 20-odd% percent of mixed solvents in the Sika5500 has in anyway activated the bitumen?

I'll test the bond to destruction when I am back from the states, and shall update the thread then.

I'm in North Bromley.

Boring update: Sikabonded blocks cannot, I repeat cannot, be kicked free. Hammer testing next.

Just lay the things already. They're clearly not going anywhere!!