Home DIY

On the subject of LED lighting, I replaced 3 regular downlighter bulbs in my hallway for LED's due to the fact they were on much of the day. When they were switched off one of them would constantly flash about every 30 seconds. I think it was due to induced voltage from adjacent wiring. I've since replaced them with another brand and the problem has gone away.

Those seem to be better WVM, 3W input and 580 Lumen output.

Given that there are going to be 8 lights in what is a very small room that'll probably be more than enough.

Now- is it far too simplistic to think the following:

• 140mm minimum clearance for a 50W halogen in the instructions
  
• I have 100mm
  
• 3W LED's should output significantly less heat, so the 100mm clearance would be ok?
  
  

Or am I still going to set my flat on fire?

8X50W= 400W
8X3W= 24W

That's a significant difference in power, which if it is reflected in heat, should see the ceiling void exposed to a much lower thermal load.

I prefer a more traditional lighting source..

Keeps the dunny smelling fresh too.

^^ BDW asleep in the front?

Or am I still going to set my flat on fire?

The blurb includes the line "Low heat generation, no heat damage" so you would like to think not. Maybe use the ask a question option on the listing?

If each bulb is only drawing 3W then does it follow that the heat output would be 47W less than the Halogen?

A very quick search suggest 'conventional' bulbs give off around 90% of their rated wattage as heat so a 50 watt bulb is banging out around 45 watts of heat and 5 watts of light so I reckon you'll be cushty.
In the interests of science I just went to check how warm our always on led downlighters are. They were turned off......

Pretty cool then?

The bulbs have an aluminium body with cooling fins so they do generate some heat, probably from the electronics. I've turned the lights on and will pull a bulb in 5 minutes to see how warm it is. The halogens get hot enough to burn within seconds.

Part of the specification for the bulbs is a heatsink, so there is clearly heat generated by some part of the bulb assembly.

Question is, how much?

If the answer is "not a lot" then I think we may be sorted- thanks for your research!

Mine are 5.4W GU10 bulbs so running straight off 240v. After roughly 5 minutes the heat sink was warm to hot but easily handled. A halogen example would have taken skin off.

Also, thinking out loud, I believe you may need transformers appropriate to LED lamps for MR16 fittings. The only other concern would be someone later replacing a failed bulb with a halogen one although the transformer may prohibit that.

I got these transformers: http://www.screwfix.com/p/halolite-20-60va-low-voltage-electronic-transformer-240v/48058?_requestid=244721#

My memory was correct and you will need LED specific transformers, These look cheap - http://www.lowenergysupermarket.com/collections/led-drivers-led-dimmer-switches/mr16-led-transformer

I don't know if these are dimmable with an LED specific dimmer switch but a quick email will soon answer that one.

I've put Led bulb into sockets that did have halogen bulb in, worked fine.

However in this case it would be an advantage to have light sockets that can only run Led.

Shhhh. A gentleman never asks such questions on a first date.....

Halogen bulbs give most their heat out of the front with the light unless it's a dichroic lens package. LEDs produce less heat per lumen but it's generated in the tiny junctionof the diode and needs conducting away to heat sinks. This is why decent bike lights have ribbed metal bodies and led replacements for standard bulbs have a lot of ugly metal below the fitting.

If your halogen spot fitting doesn't have enough ventilation behind the units your LEDs won't last their advertised life.

How much of the electrics have you done yourself?

Zero, pretty much- other than wiring in the cooker.

Thinking about this we (or I) are going round in circles a bit.

It's all very well me installing LED lights, but then if I sell the place the new owners may install halogens- and burn the place down.

That's clearly a sub-optimal outcome.

Ergo- drop the ceiling to provide the officially mandated clearance, no more problem.

I can then use LED's if I want to reduce my electricity bill, or Halogen bulbs if I want to reduce my capex.

Pawel Kowalski aka Mr Magoo ............

So there is a forumenger who does certfied electrics?

I quite like the upstairs neighbours, they feed the cats for us upon occaision- burning their flat down would be poor payment for their kindness I feel.

sorry to repeat the question, but can anyone recommend an electrician who can write certificates for the job? I have a couple of recommended electricians I could use, but freeholder demands I provide certificates of the jobs they do.
council wants certificate too it seems.

sorry to repeat the question, but can anyone recommend an electrician who can write certificates for the job? I have a couple of recommended electricians I could use, but freeholder demands I provide certificates of the jobs they do.
council wants certificate too it seems.

Where are you? I have 3 electrician mates, all can self certificate- one in Stokey, (20+ years a sparks) one Wandsworth (mate of the first ) the last East Dulwich (NAPIT inspector -bit of an anal clipboard but he's v legit...).

PM me if you want numbers and names.

Ah- I could do with having a chat with one of your friends.

I want a new consumer unit putting in, certified properly.

Then I was going to run all the wire for new sockets, cooker and so on, chase those into the walls, fit the sockets blah blah, then get someone back in to inspect and certify- sound reasonable?

Thanks Absurdbird. I'll PM you shortly.

Another thing. Going to need some tile drill bits. There are many options on the market, so wondering if anyone on here has any favourites? Planning to use my DeWalt cordless for the job.
And how about those kits that lets you guide the drill bit and trickle water?