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  • Or invest some time into modelling it in Sketchup or similar then get all the bits laser cut. Laser24 and Laser Master are almost equally cheap.

  • I will be in touch!

    I also want to create a shelving unit in the kitchen using scaffold poles a bit like this should be pretty straightforward, right?

  • @Sam_Doman is this the sort of thing you would know about?

  • Ooh, this is good timing; was just thinking about looking into laser cutting. WHat's the max thickness of material, do you know?

  • Following the other comments, in the long run you probably can't. Stone of some kind is a better bet. The more varnish/sealer you apply the more pressure there is from the moisture in the wood to escape, moisture vapour permeable lacquer might work if it's available. Then you have the 5-10 year maintenance cycle. If you don't mind u/v bleaching and drying the wood every time it gets used then it might last even with wax. If you put tenants in I'd give it about a year before it was rotting.

    I can't understand why they would do it all in knotty pine either, the resin leaching from the knots would destroy any treatment. Climatic conditions would affect your choices though, this could be a great idea in a Swedish summer lake house.

  • But it looks so nice...

    :'(

  • Depends who you go to, their capacity is normally on the site but most go up to about 20mm steel. If it's a larger order then Cutting Technologies are good and have serious machines.

  • Yeah, that'll be dead easy. I'd include some triangulation / cross bracing though, could be wobbly without it.

  • When practicality is less of a concern you can make some lovely spaces. I had a client years ago who's home was like a dolls house. Half the rooms were barely used but they were all incredible.

  • That is beautiful. Would love a coffee table in a similar finish but I don't have enough funds at the moment.
    How long (on average) does it take from order to completion for something like that?

  • Thanks! I'd be happy to work on a piece for you. Delivery times depend on what else I've got on, but generally less than four weeks.

  • Moving soon so obviously beginning the renovation/ interior design obsession anew. Post your pinterests/links to desirable 'spaces' punches self in the face

  • So the owners removed the chimney breast and this is whats left.
    Bolster out concrete and lay boards in its place?

  • You can see the toe

  • Really easy, especially if you get someone else to cut everything to length - search for galvanised steel handrail fittings, 33.7mm is common although in the picture that looks like it could be the next gauge up.
    I don't think you'll need cross bracing once you start doing the fittings up as they tighten on all sockets with big allen grub screws.

    The one downside might be price - all the fittings add up and if you're cutting it yourself, getting 6m lengths delivered isn't cheap!

  • That's why I use threaded rod instead, much cheaper.

  • Isn't it a bit bendy? I've used M10 for hanging stuff but I wouldn't want any sort of compressive load on it (or sideways load like the support of a shelf).

  • Picture rail- best way of fitting it?

    Drill through with screw+plug?

  • No more nails surely?

  • The pic is of shelves that have been up for about 8-10 years, no issues so far.
    I used 1/2" rod and affixed the ply to the wall at various points.


    1 Attachment

    • R1002505.jpg
  • Oh that looks good! I was imagining long (>1m) uprights and horizontals supporting the shelves.

  • The rods are just over 1.5m, the connectors on top are to disguise the slope in our floor because I made sure all the shelves were level.
    The 5 shelves use 25mm baltic birch.

  • That looks great. That's pretty much exactly what I'd like for our spare room.

    I'm going to be covering the floor downstairs using large sheets of baltic birch ply laid in alternating tiles, sanded and varnished.
    In the upstairs office/spare bedroom I was going to cover the floor and walls in OSB board. Sand and varnish the floor and paint the walls.
    Both seem cheap and easier, whilst providing an interesting finish.

    Any reason this wouldn't work?

  • You're saying downstairs as in basement or main floor? If basement you'll need some kind of waterproof underlay like Delta FL or whatever.
    The walls and floors covered in OSB might be a little overwhelming if it's all varnished - a little too much yellow wood.
    The neighbours did their kitchen floor in OSB, turned out well - durability will depend on type and number of coats of preservative.

  • If done well it'll end up being an osb/epoxy floor I suspect.

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Home DIY

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