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total euph
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Been at the new place for about 2 weeks now:
Ripped up all the carpets.
Plucked out (literally) hundreds of tacks/staples seemingly randomly placed that were holding it down.
Scraped off various layers of wallpaper (begets more wallpaper, begets more wallpaper, begets weird dusty paint, begets more wallpaper etc).
Plastered.
Undercoat.
New plug sockets/boxes/lightswitches etc.
New skirting.
New doors/locks.
Bought a bed, a hoover and a ladder (all purchases I never wish to make ever again).
Bought paint (though now deliberating after Mrs CYOA said "it's darker than I thought it would be").
Measured and planed a load of oak (thanks Papa CYOA) for shelving downstairs.
Planning out furniture upstairs and will be planing that in the next couple of weeks ready to join.Still need to do kitchen and bathroom but am toying with holding off on those until we can figure out if an extension would be worth it as they both face onto the back of the house (not sure how much of a kitchen carcass is salvageable once it's laid down. i.e. if we extended could we reuse/rearrange?)
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Floating shelves to be fitted into an alcove. Presumably it's just a case of trial and error to sand mil by mil off the edges to get them to fit snugly? I don't want to chisel into our new plaster and embed the edges there - instead I'm planning on just having 4 good screws into the wall. euph.
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Angle-iron shaped brackets around perimeter, attached firstly to the wall, set shelves on top screw in from underneath: these can then double as a stairway to heaven.
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After years of looking for a more mathematical way to do it, I've settled for paper template (2 pieces of paper smaller than the alcove overlapping, mark the odd shapes by folding or whatever method you prefer), then hardboard/any thin board from that template, followed by cutting the shelf and final planing (as opposed to sanding). Longwinded but it saves a lot of f'ing and blinding with shelves that always need a bit more taken off, until they need a bit put back...
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Looking to clear the cavity on the gable end of the house due to some damp. Thoughts are along the lines of removing external brick at regularl intervals and the corners of the house and dragging/pushing...etc the debris out by hand and using hooks and a long piece of timber.
Just wondering how many bricks I can remove before the house falls down?
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No more than 4 in any instance.
you might want to do less til you see what it looks like. eg spalled bricks above?
2 skin wall properly tied?Leave the corners well alone if possible
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As in 4 in one area?
Yeah, plan is to take one at a time at around 1m intervals. Obviously I'll check the first one with a boroscope and see how it fares from there. Yeah, originally when I put a new kitchen in, I put a vent through and took a load of existing debris from the cavity out that caused a damp issue in the corner. There were wall ties when I looked then.
There's a couple of damaged brick faces there through freeze/thaw, but not at the level I'm looking to remove.
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Not strong enough, more fiddly than angled brackets.
My idea wouldn't be completely hidden, but you'd see very little of the bracket, underneath and at the back of the shelf. -
Rather depends on whether you intend on putting an engine block on the shelf, or some Christmas cards and a vase - I'd go for the invisible, neat shelf-bolts if the later.
Angle iron has it's place - in the garage, as unseen structure, or if visible as part of a coherent overall design.
Using it to hold up shelves is a bit inelegant.
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Crude description of what I meant - something that is the same shape but obviously a little lighter. If you can hardly see it, does it matter how elegant it is?
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instead I'm planning on just having 4 good screws into the wall.
Meaning what? If you're going to use battens I recommend putting up one side batten first, then cut/plane/sand the shelf to size, put it level in the alcove and mark the position of the other side batten, fit the other side batten, check the shelf fit and then fit the back batten (which just needs to go straight between the back end of the side battens). That way you avoid any problems of "twist" between the side battens that will inevitably occur if you try to get them all level with a spirit-level. You can then pin, screw or dowel the shelf to the batten if you're concerned.
You can also put a thin board underneath the batten and a nosing piece to make the shelves "float", like the bottom image here.
You're unlikely to ever get the fit millimetre perfect, although you can use each shelf as a test/guide for the next (since the alcove may not be square all the way up). If you're painting the shelves a bit of caulk will hide any gap between them and the wall.
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Pocket screws might be another solution.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=49946&cat=1,180,42311,46275,49946 -
Ours were done by drilling holes into the sides of the alcoves, the chap then fitted cut sections of threaded rod into those holes which protruded a bit. The shelves were cut to length and grooves routered into the ends. The shelves then slid onto these bolts. Solid pine 1.5" thick, I think. About 4/5' long and are rammed with books. Going nowhere at the minute.
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As in 4 in one area?
you can remove up to 4 in a straight line in one course then leave 3 and remove another 4 etc
if you get a collapse it is limited to 3 in the course above, 2 in the course above that in a triangle, which is manageable for repair and wouldnt be catastrophic to structure.
take 2 and leave 2 is fine and will probably be enough to clear the cavity
The other thing to remember is when rebuilding, you can never push enough compo in the top gap to really be happy, so I always pack some small stones in the top gap before pointing it
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That's great. Thanks! thumbs up
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One last thing, what about removing a couple bricks from the corner of the house to get a length of timber or drainage rods through to knock mortar off the wall ties?
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Anyone know where to buy flat pack drawers? Just the drawers themselves, not the carcass.
I've found this so far: http://www.drawersnthings.co.uk/bedroom-drawers/soft-close-runner-137/200mm-high-145/500mm-deep-149/soft-close-bedroom-drawer-500mm-deep-200mm-high-600mm-wide which seems ok, little expensive maybe.
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Home DIY
Posted by
@hippy
@lynx @Mr_Sworld
I would hazard a guess that the new gas safe inspection guidelines that come into force next year have been trained out, but there has possibly been a misinterpretation. here they are > http://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/pdf/TB001_-_Gas_Industry_Unsafe_Situation_Procedure_(GIUSP)_Edition_7.0_v1.pdf
Situation 7.4, page 24 mentions inoperative FSDs; however cases where there is no FSD are not mentioned..
The eagle eyed among you may also notice this execrable piece of text: ..pipework entering a domestic premise