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• #5202
Looks nice, get a sprayer and paint it lime green, it'll look wonderful.
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• #5203
Then ragroll it in fuscia.
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• #5204
Ooh, suits you sir.
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• #5205
Wonderful! is £20.99 /10m
ill sell it to you special price of £10/10m. it will come in mosaic pattern.
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• #5206
I sometimes think I know Neil's home better than I know him, even though I've never been there. :)
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• #5207
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• #5208
http://www.lfgss.com/comments/9938274/
and the following comments.
Their main disadvantage is that they do not scabble to the width of the machine,
the one rive-gauche links to leaves 54mm at the edge,
and you wouldn't want to scabble your front door threshhold!Your 7(?)M^2 is only a couple hours work,
including your learning curve,
so you might be able to negotiate with the downstairs neighbour. -
• #5209
All the paint needs to come off the screed you think?
The least dusty way of doing this (sans-scrabbler) would be to cut straight through the screed twice, once at either end, then chisel it out I think - rather than a series of cuts that would lead to the screed fragmenting and needing to be removed, but dustier than using the SDS I reckon.
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• #5210
I dont know anything about screed but I like that you can see your existing parquet in the background of the photos!
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• #5211
I got one response to my request-for-quote's that I sent out today - they'll lay the floor if I get the scrabbling/levelling done.
Mespilus- fancy making some additional dollar?
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• #5212
I'd at least take off some of the paint so that the new screed can key onto it, plus it'll help it to dry.
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• #5213
2 years ago, ffs!
groundhog day
I predict in two years time this conversation will recycle..
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• #5214
No point rushing things.
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• #5215
I'd at least take off some of the paint so that the new screed can key onto it, plus it'll help it to dry.
I'm not going to put new screed down, just self levelling compound in the gap, as it were.
I could follow the advice of mespilus and cut grooves into the existing screed, then chisel it down and fill that up to level again, which would save on materials I guess, and if it does fracture then just take out those bits. Dust-O-rama though.
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• #5216
Time isn't on my side this week, nor next,
but I do own an Evolution circular saw,
(with its spigot for attaching dust extraction).
and the approved masonry diamond disc.Much easier to set the maximum depth of cut,
and the dust suppression must many times better than an angle grinder. -
• #5217
Sounds silly I know, but it's the thought of having to clear the dust out again that has kept pushing this job down the list of priorities.
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• #5218
Split the job up between two different contractors. One for scrabbling and levelling, one for parquet laying.
While they're working you can be riding. What's not to like?
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• #5219
Try wetting it first.
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• #5220
A scrabbler?
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• #5221
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• #5222
Polishing concrete - how easy is it?
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• #5223
We have a plastic skylight (1) in our bathroom that gets soaking with condensation. The water then runs down, some soaks into a bare wood frame (2) underneath this and some drips onto a fascia panel (3) and again runs down this and drops onto me as I sit taking a dump.
I'm a bit worried about the bare wood frame soaking up some of the water but I reckon that painting this wood wouldn't entirely stop the moisture soaking in and would make it harder for it to get out.
TBH though, I'm more worried about the shitty ice cold droplets of water that interupt jobbytime.
Anyone got any ideas for a remedy?
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• #5224
Use an umbrella.
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• #5225
Not a bad shout, wouldn't that be bad luck though?
That shit is coming off...