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• #5127
For the hatch I just used a piece of ply, trimmed to size.
Thats what I have atm, not a big fan ..
I think we have space for the proper ladder to arc and sit; will double check.
Step 1 is buy a taller step ladder.
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• #5128
Just don't put your foot through the plasterboard. I've never done it but I don't do much loft work. Normally you lose your balance on the joist and fall onto the plasterboard, might be worth getting a few pieces of ply/chipboard up there to stand/kneel on. I wouldn't worry about breaking the joists though, they flex a lot before they break.
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• #5129
What Airhead said. Very good advice.
I hired a core drill myself which came with an isolation transformer. It's a tough bit of drilling depending on your wall construction. Took me maybe an hour or two on a Victorian brick house.
I'd get a fan instead of using a dehumidifier. Envirovent Silent 100 works quite well for me. You want your bathroom door to have a gap at the bottom to allow ingress of air.
Someone might suggest getting a fan above the shower head, but often this is not an easy solution.
No idea how much you'd pay to have this work done, but if it were me doing it (and I'm slower than a professional tradesman), I'd want a full day's pay, so something like £200 - £250, I guess.
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• #5130
That's a fair estimate for the labour, although an electrician might want more per day. They are also going to want an RCD protected circuit and an isolation switch so that could add to your material costs. Ideally you'd want 3 people, a core drill specialist, tiler and electrician. That's not going to work on such a small job unless you happen to have 3 mates who do those jobs. Having said that, I've never tried to core drill a tile but it might work with a diamond tipped core bit and slow speed, they will crack easily though.
I've drilled some reinforced concrete walls for kitchen extractors, that is a days work. The pro's who do it all the time suffer from white finger where you lose circulation in the hands, it's quite painful.
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• #5131
Quite easy.
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• #5132
heat exchanger ventilation unit
I thought about one of these, to deal with condensation (no radiator in b.room) let me know how it is.
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• #5133
OK
Seems like a leave until bathroom gets redone. Keep on top of it by being sensible. -
• #5134
Artex on the ceiling - what to do? Overboard it?
Polystyrene ceiling tiles - remove with a scraper then likely to need to replaster the ceiling?
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• #5135
Where are you amey? I have a setpladder in Barnet you are more than welcome to borrow if it is helpful
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• #5136
literally the other end .. BR1
Thanks for the offer
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• #5137
Test for asbestos first. Search online and you'll find a link for a place that sends you a sampling kit with a mailer.
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• #5138
Artex on the ceiling
@ChainBreaker is an expert in this ;)
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• #5139
Ha, typical. No probs.
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• #5140
I have a setpladder in Barnet you are more than welcome to borrow if it is helpful
Ah so that's where the disgraced ex-FIFA president is hiding
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• #5141
For both?
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• #5142
He's not hiding, he's chained to the radiator begging forgiveness.
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• #5143
I have two stepladders if you want one...
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• #5144
Polystyrene should be fine to remove, assuming you've touched it and identified it as polystyrene. One of our bedrooms had them. Scrape off with a wallpaper scraper. If they didn't use too much adhesive then you should just be able to sand off the adhesive. However, often tiles are used to hide ceilings covered in cracks (as I discovered).
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• #5145
See if you can wipe it off with steam cleaner. But you have to be careful not to damage what the artex is attached too.
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• #5146
Got a loft ladder if you need to borrow one.
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• #5147
Steaming the artex means that the fibre issue isn't there.
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• #5148
Yeah, I'd read that wetting is a good idea. Also: wear an FFP2 mask anyway.
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• #5149
Recommended suppliers of parquet flooring? Restored or new?
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• #5150
Dehumidifiers then, you know, the plug in to the wall kind.
What's good?
Yep, it's relatively flimsy but for something that gets used once a month it's fine. If I was going up every few days I'd have looked at something more sturdy.
The clearance issue I had wasn't that there wasn't enough horizontal space for a ladder to sit up there, it was that there wasn't enough roof clearance. The bigger ladders push up and swing around so you need an arc of vertical clearance available. My problem was that in one direction it would have fouled on the roof and the other a roof truss. Worth checking that you have that clearance.
For the hatch I just used a piece of ply, trimmed to size.