Home DIY

Fused switch assistance please! I'm replacing all the white plastic jobs with brass ones, but the fused switches have me confused as there's some different terminology going on

Load and Supply, vs In and Out

Do I have the wrong hardware?

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Load is the thing you are outputting to so "out"..

I have found the uPVC cleaner from HG very good if that's more convenient for you to get than the other options already provided.

Squeaky, creaky stairs in a Victorian terrace. Can someone point me to a good guide or book for repairing?

It's undercloak

Where’s the best place to get Zinsser AllCoat paint mixed to a RAL colour?

Looking for colour accuracy above anything else…

Can I just use an sds to remove the concrete here?

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Don’t see why not but there’s an easy way to find out!

Door chat:

When it gets a bit warmer I'm going to sort this door out. I'd like to replace the single panes with double glazing. Obviously there isn't enough depth now for even a slim sealed unit - but is there any reason why I can't route out an extra 5-6mm on the external side of the door to fit a deeper unit?

Question 2 is what do people do about a door whilst they sort this? Do I just board up and use my back door for a few days? Can't see me getting it all finished in one including stripping/painting..

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You should just be able to plane down the rails or whatever the name is for the parts which you have to remove to get the old glass out.

I don’t think there is enough rail to take the amount I need: glass to back of the rail is currently ~14mm and then thinnest sealed units I’ve seen without getting silly ££s are 10-12mm.

If you got a ~14mm glass could the beading be mounted slightly differently (holding the glass in from the front face , + you get to choose any mouldings)

It looks like a complicated door. thinking for a second more , if it's even applicable, I'd stay with the 10-12mm glass and set it in with putty (along with the differently mounted beading)

It’s something like that - looks like the inside beading is removable, exterior looks fixed. My plan was to take the panes out, and use a palm router to remove enough material from the front side (green hashes) that a thicker sealed unit could fit. Trying to figure if a) this is feasible and b) whether 8 x sealed units plus all the fitting, plus repainting, if it isn’t worth just replacing the whole door.

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what baffles me is the secondary metal(?) frame on the inside.
I can think of better projects of love but once (and if its needed) you factor in a new door frame lining that's a whole heap of moneys ..

Got you. It’s just a security thing - a hangover from the previous owner. She was an old dear living alone and so its london bars, cages, triple bolts. Either she was very timid, or someone did a number on upselling her ‘security’. It’s not part of the door at all just a cage screwed on.

Although it looks rough it’s a nice, solid wood door - just tired - hence why I’m tempted to refresh.

I see the desire to do it, personally I'd try and cut out the routering even if it means adding spacers to keep the metal guard further away from the door, just because it's adding a whole other stage.. but however it's done I think it can be done while the door is still hung

Sealed units are priced per Square meter. However there's usually a minium charge equivalent to 0.3sqm. 8x Toughened low-u units will eating the economic viability.

Beside the thickness of the unit, you'll also need to allow for some way of sealing the unit into the frame. Be that putty or dry glazing tape.

Is there enough height to the bead/rebates to hide the spacer bar and sealant around the edge of a sealed unit?

Am I right in thinking that I can use just putty without beading? I’m less concerned about the metal guard - more about having enough space in each frame to hold the much thicker sealed unit in from the back (i.e red line in my diagram) as currently single pane. I guess routing should be possible without taking the door off..

Am I right in thinking that I can use just putty without beading?

https://www.slenderpane.com/slim-double-glazed-units/glazing-methods

Ok So. We watched some YouTube videos and built ourselves a garden wall. It’s not the prettiest but it works. Any suggestions to clean up the mess from my wife’s mortar work?!

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Tell her to go ask on her own forum for advice, then tidy it up 😊

1) that looks awesome, you should be proud [of your bricky wife]
2) brick cleaner / muriatic acid

Also, does anyone know if plaster-in wall lights - “floor washers” can be used in solid brick walls? They seem to be mainly set up for plasterboard but I don’t see why they couldn’t work, eg

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And why doesn’t that photo work??