Home DIY

How old is the property?

According to the survey 1890.

Dark and raining at the minute so I'll use the surveyor pics.

Just been out to inspect it and no obvious leaks but the pipes aren't guttering so I'll have to check again when my gf goes for a shower or flushes the toilet

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I'm not sure if I've quite got your plan but is there a soil pipe running down that small bit of exterior wall?

I (well fortunately downstairs mainly) had an issue where the soil pipe had corroded and flushing it would splash water on the wall and eventually caused damp on the inside.

Edit: just seen those pictures and looks like there is.

I'm not a drainage expert.
If the stripped wall is not damp to the touch,
the mould could have been caused by a fault/leak/poor joint in the original/previous downpipe.

Mmmm. It looks historical. If it was still wet, you'd have seen it coming all the way through to the surface.

This.

Could have been a bath leak from decades ago that wasn't dealt with well.

Draw pencil marks around the damp and leave it for a few months to see if they get worse.

water

...

Well, some of it was water. Fortunately I was the upstairs flat ...

We've raised the floor level of our bathroom about 20mm with ply and tiles, the hallway will be carpeted but there will be a noticeable step up in to the room. Anyone got a suggestion for some kind of threshold bar?

I have similar, had an oak threshold ramp installed by the floorer, but have struggled to find them online so I’m not much help but wanna see what others say.

I could possible machine something up in my workshop and supply with countersunk holes and matching hardwood pellets depending upon dimensions. And it would need posting so probably not an option?
see my posts for wood stuff I've made

Loads on eBay - “oak threshold bar” - various different height differentials

Search for threshold ramp. There are loads around like this: https://www.diy.com/departments/solid-oak-flooring-ramp-threshold-unfinished-7mm-0-9m-length/5061006200844_BQ.prd

I can't recall where I got some from but the key was in the installation and making sure that the "step" up was measured correctly.

Ah cool thanks all. I couldn't find any with a decent step on them before.

Solvent or water-based satin exterior AllCoat for masonry (Victorian stonework)?

My brain is melting. All I know is, get a single 10-litre tub to get colour consistency...

OK, Masonry. I usually say masonry when I'm dealing with cills and stonework around windows, dental etc. The actual brickwork I usually paint with an exterior paint from Little Greene or F&B. I've never painted brickwork with Allcoat!

I know this doesn't help clear things up!!

Sorry, I mean I’m looking to paint exterior cills/lintels/capitals etc on a Victorian house, with AllCoat. Just not sure whether to use water or solvent-based…

Would also love a recommendation for painting bare, new interior woodwork (ply/tanalised timber etc), matt finish…

I've only ever used the water based one. I try to avoid solvent based wherever possible.

For the woodwork probably Zinsser BIN Aqua as a primer followed by tinted undercoat matching the top coat and 2 top coats. So little greene undercoat if it's a LG top coat.

That's belt and braces and there's plenty of different options that would get you there. Quality of the ply/woodwork would make a difference too. I do sometimes do different things depending on the surface I'm working with.

I'd be surprised if you need 10lts for the cills/window surrounds etc. 2.5lts would normally cover a lot of that kind of thing.

Thank you, really appreciate supping from your font of wisdom as always!

The woodwork colour will be (close to) white; would it be safe to skip the undercoat step and paint the 2x coats of finish directly onto BIN Aqua?

First coat of primer on for bed painting. Didn't take too long but think I'll be a bit bored by the time I've done 4 coats.

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Imagine a spray gun would be good for this kind of thing.

Spray finish is great but by the time you have decent quality equipment and paint for it, and can cope with the overspray etc. it's easier to roll it. It gets quicker every coat for some reason!

Yes, I do this a fair bit. Sometimes you find you need to sand after the first coat though, this is where the undercoat comes in handy. It also helps to build a smoother surface in some cases where this is important, especially as water based paints don't 'level' particularly well compared to old school oil based stuff.

Very messy though I imagine. Roller wasn't too bad, will probably be about an hour a coat I reckon, aiming for two primer (tinted to the same colour as the top coat) and two top coat.

I did contact a furniture spraying company but the earliest they could do it was July ...

It is messy, but those parts could be sprayed outside - but then I guess you need sympathetic weather.

Ime a massive problem with spraying is contamination.

There's always some bit of fucking dust or something flying around getting stuck in what you've painted.

For normal paint foam mini roller all day long.