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• #43752
Also act as caltrops too keep the kids away from wet paint.
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• #43753
rutlands tempting me with this in my inbox today, feels like it might be of use to all those lusting after the cubed shelving a page or two back
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• #43754
Having a stressful morning and that call back has really brightened my day. đź‘Ť
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• #43755
Find something to raise the item in question so it's not in direct contact with the newspaper?
If its something that may move about, you can reverse wrap masking tape on top of the object you're using to raise the thing you're painting. That will help it stick in place.
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• #43756
I need to make this archway narrower by about 6 inches to accommodate some pre-made glass doors/room divider. It was previously covered in a moulded plaster arch which we removed, leaving this wood beneath. I believe there’s a steel beam underneath the top bit, and the vertical side pieces are nailed into the brick.
To make it narrower I think my best option is to build a tiny stud wall and plasterboard over. But I think I probably also need to remove the wood that’s boxing in the steel, so I can plasterboard over that, because I’m assuming I won’t be able to skim over the existing wood.
So I think my best bet is to remove all the boxing and vertical wood pieces, build stud wall to make arch narrower, plasterboard the whole lot including the beam, then get a plasterer in to skim it all. Unless anyone here has any bright ideas to avoid any of that?
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• #43757
Is that 3" from both sides?
If so I think I'm totally misunderstanding something, as isn't it easiest to buy some wood the right size and nail it on?
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• #43758
Surely for 6 inches you could just use a few thick planks of wood?
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• #43759
Could do 3” from both sides but I think it would be better to take it all from one side (you can see the line on the horizontal where I’ve marked it). Mainly because of the way the rooms are laid out currently.
I think the issue with just using wood would be making it look good after, unless I have a really wide architrave to cover it?
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• #43760
I'd like to get some 15mm oak dowel on Monday in SW London. Anyone know anywhere likely to stock it?
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• #43761
Leyland SDM have some bits like that, shop staff are usually quite good on the phone
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• #43762
thank you
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• #43763
So long as the wood doesn't have any movement in it (tough for a door frame I guess?) then it should be skimmable. Presumably a plasterer would put scrim tape or some kind of mesh over it to give the plaster a nice key and avoid cracks?
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• #43764
The paint is starting to flake on the top part of our bay window. This part is made of wood and we are concerned it is rotten. Rather than wait for it to become a problem I’d like to get someone in to replace it. The only issue is that I’m not sure who to contact. A roofer? General builder? A window installer.
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• #43765
A good decorator should be able to help there
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• #43766
If that’s really wood then I imagine the ultimate solution would be have it replaced with render or cement or something.
Was the wood put in as a fix for crumbling original cement?
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• #43767
The only issue is that I’m not sure who to contact.
@chrisbmx116 he did a great job on his, I'm sure his rates are competitive.
Out of curiosity which bit is wood? Just the red, or the red and the green?
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• #43768
As @Tenderloin has mentioned it's a job for a decorator but i wouldn't want to get someone on it at this time of year.
Black matt paint is always going to fail like this more quickly than white gloss because it absorbs heat in the summer, cracks and moisture gets under the surface. It needs primer and undercoat tinted to a similar colour and ideal conditions to apply it (i.e. dry and warm). Then it just needs recoating more often than white gloss.
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• #43770
A roofer? General builder?
Builder / maintenance person. Maybe a roofer if the flat rood deck behind / above it is fucked.
When things are getting dry / warm I'd be tempted to get up there on a ladder and sand back that flaking area to get a feel for the shape of the wood.
Presume that bit is a facia board that fronts the bay roof joists behind it.
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• #43771
Just saw this:
why has nobody thought about including pele, sly Stallone, and Michael Caine? With John Warl as the foreman? -
• #43772
FANX!
And yeah, as others have said, prob a decorator, but.... if your experience maps to mine you will struggle to find anyone to tackle it as it's a real can of worms. I can see from that pic there are multiple issues with your masonry work and you will not know how bad they are until you start tackling them - so unless going for a full redo folks tend to be hesitant on quoting on unknowns.I'd just do it yourself, it's pretty easy, trowel thing and some tourpet, and just stop when you are happy with the results. Wood does look pretty fucked though, that may be a tougher job.
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• #43773
On a Dif note, I want to make a trap door in my living room/hallway so I can insulate floorboards from below and make a preppers store, anyone have any tips/seen any good vids? Obvs dont want to cut the joists that support the damn floor... and we have a 1.5m space below so plenty of room to work once I can get in it.
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• #43774
The main problem here is the lack of a gutter when it rains the water is just running down the masonry, once it gets through any defects in the paint it will soak whatever is underneath ( not sure it is wood ) and pop the paint
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• #43775
so I can insulate floorboards from below and make a preppers store
Yeah fucking right.
Or don't even try to mask, go carefully and remove any over paint from the glass with a stanley blade.