Home DIY

Isn't the distinction in the motion of the tool, rather than the cutting blade? (I have never used an oscillating multi-tool though so I might be wrong)

I don't think it oscillates, it says in the blurb that it's pneumatic. Rubi are pretty good in the tiling tools department. I would expect it to work. It did seem reasonably priced but it's a one trick pony.

That was kinda what I meant, but good to clarify, that it seems to operate differently from an Oscillating multitool, not just be a special attachment

Fucking hate the second stage of wall prep for decorating.

Plastering is great. Everything suddenly looks cohesive. Mist cost and initial wall prep is great as it starts to come together. Then you go back over it and realise how many defects you missed and how wonkey the walls are and you start making it all look patchy again....

... and the realisation of how much more you need to do before you're going to be able to put the final coat on.

Good quality lining paper gives the best long term outcome. If you are doing a lot of small filler patches then try feathering it out with a sponge and do use Gardz.

Also, how are you going to apply the final coat? If I'm doing the job for myself I roll it on with a small roller and then even it out with a brush working top to bottom keeping very straight lines. If you use a decent roller on perfect walls you might be happy with that finish though.

We've actually removed average lining paper before replastering 😊 Tbh I think having it plastered will make life easier long term. It's not that uneven really - just that once you're really looking at a wall...

What's the rational of Gardz? I don't think I'll bother just because of timing limitations (need the room back by Tues morning). Also we'll ultimately do another top coat in dulux kitchen which is petty thick.

The sponge sounds like a plan.

Tbh it's not that bad. Just some visible pin holes now. But it's also that I've knocked back a load of high spots along with the first round of filler so it's back to being leopard patterned.

One to give all the architecture and design heads a migraine. We had a manky old light fitting that ms_com didn't want to get rid of so gave me some instructions and directions to turn it into a Pajaki homage. I rewired it and have just hung it after quite a few months of procrastination.

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Pajaki

One image search later, and I'm hiding under my bed with a torch and rolled up newspaper.

I suppose it does mean spiders of straw in some ways.

My image search results are a little more explanatory

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GIS: perhaps you'd like some images of colourful chandeliers.

DuckDuckGo: fuck you, you'll never sleep again, have some spiders.

gardz stops the filler from 'grinning'. Basically it seals it, it's a very thin quick drying sealer and it helps to stop filler showing through paint.

I want to build a workshop/garden studio here that adheres to the rules of permitted development. Rather than build it set in from the rear and party wall (thus losing space behind and to the RHS) I’m wondering about whether I could use the rear and party wall as two of the four walls of the workshop. They would need rebuilding as the current walls are crap. How complicated is this likely to be logistically in terms of paperwork? I’m guessing I’d need a party wall agreement and possibly planning permission from the council for changing the rear wall? There is a small service alley behind that the bin lorry uses and also there is a telegraph pole set just behind our wall which complicates things too. If it is too much hassle we will just set in in with a small alley behind but we’re keen to maximise space

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For the building, maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwelling house for it to qualify for permitted development rather than planning permission.

Not sure about the requirement to get planning for replacing the back wall, the neighbour to the top left seems to have their building right up to the wall.

Will you keep an access door to the alley and relocate it?

Rutland's factory specials coming up. I'm assuming they will have whetstone grinders and plunge saws as they have had these up recently anyway.

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Yup we’d keep back access to the alley as that’s where the bins are collected from. The neighbour out the back to the left did some dodgy dealing with the council to get planning according to the word on the street

Cheap ply x hardboard door. Was varnished with a dark tinted varnish.

I've fitted a pushcatch and am trying to turn it white.

Initially I thought that wood dust from the bottom of the door (where I'd hand sanded and not hoovered as well) had mixed into the paint as it all went a bit beige. However, after the 2nd coat it's still looking yellowy.

It's really hard to photo, but here you can see the same white paint on the wall, the wood filler where the handle hole was, and the main section of the door. That sort of yellow tinge is throughout. I wanted to use the same paint as the wall to make it blend in with the wall.

Is the paint the problem and do I need to use the woodwork acrylic? Or just more coats? Or something else?

Cheers.

(also a pic of how the room is coming on... Slowly... I'm fucking knackered after 3 evenings work after full days of work or childcare)

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You need to seal it with something like coverstain or B.I.N. Aqua or B.I.N. from Zinsser. Other manufacturers will have stuff that does it. In that case I would probably favour B.I.N. Aqua or B.I.N., B.I.N. needs meths cleanup though.

Sometimes it is just a case of the acrylic primer needing 24 hours to dry before overcoating to avoid this bleed. The products above should sort it more quickly but check the instructions of anything you decide to use.

“ It's really hard to photo, but here you can see the same white paint on the wall”
You have emulsioned the door?
If so unless you have keyed it properly it’s not going to adhere to old gloss very well.
Having dealt with shitty hardboard doors recently a good sand/ fill followed by adhesion primer, undercoat and satinwood gave good results.

I missed that detail. As @Mr_Smyth has pointed out, you need to use a woodwork specific paint for woodwork. There's too much water in the emulsion used for the walls.

Cheers.

The varnished finish has been removed and the surface probably keyed.

I thought I was taking a bit of a gamble and should have primed it first, I guess I was hoping to get away with the emulsion priming it. Stupid I know.

In terms of emulsion on wood, I've had success with dulux kitchen on mdf for a cooking stool. However, that is much thicker paint (so less water I assume) and I properly primed it as well as doing several topcoats.

I almost wondered about using lining paper to give a more wall-like texture but cba unless we paint the room a colour.

Currently using Purdy Collosus, much better but you are right about the shedding, even after prepping them.

Thanks for the recommendation!

I only know not to use emulsion on wood as when I painted my room back home as a teenager, I used emulsion on the skirting and architrave and my da near went through me with rage. It did of course all flake off over time. I did the wainscotting and dado in our current hall with emulsion as ms_com didn't like the sheen of the eggshell that we got in the same colour as the walls (used that on skirting and architrave for durability), but I made sure the beading and dado rail were well primed with the angry voice of my dad deep in the back of my mind.

There is Benjamin Moore Scruff-X for walls and woodwork but it’s ££££’s

putting up coving fucking sucks hairy ball bags. i hate it.

one and a half rooms left to go and my ability to cut a clean join seems to be getting worse. glad i saved the room with all the fucking difficult outside corners around the underside of the staircase and the chimney til last when i've completely ran out of motivation. sigh.