Home DIY

Maybe I should channel X-Z and pimp my kitchen. Denim cover the worktops, shag pile the walls

OMG pls do this

When I moved into my place I got a company in to add a loft hatch and ladder and board over the loft.

Turns out the current ceiling is attached to the old lath and plaster ceiling with loads of metal strips and they had to hunt around to find a spot where they could fit a loft hatch between those

Last shower I had installed hot water from the tap was ok but due to hydrostatic head nothing came through unless the shower head was laying in the bathtub. Had to install a shower pump next to the tank in the end.

What respiratory masks do people use? Something that filters are cheap and easy to get hold of.

A push to test one from JSP
Somebody will say you should be face fitted etc but with a beard I could not smell MDF/white vinegar/paint stripper/hardwood sanding dust or smell/taste any dust when sanding paint that likely contained lead.

I use a 3m half mask with replaceable filters, doesnt get super hot on your face and keeps you breathing clean.

Same here, this one:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/3m-4251-one-size-half-mask-respirator-a1-p2/464hy

It definitely works. What I would say is having recently been wearing it a lot as I'm working full time on our place doing dusty stuff is that the straps are too thin and get uncomfortable after a while, so I want to get one that works as well but has wider straps.

Did someone post a discount code for FFX on here recently?

I'm sure I saw one but tried using the search to no avail. I used to search by googling "site:lfgss.com FFX" but because of Velocio's beef with bots I can't do that any more and the forum search isn't all that.

Don't worry found it in my history but it expired.

Another jsp user here 👋

https://www.screwfix.com/p/jsp-force-8-medium-mask-respirator-with-press-to-check-filters-p3/1863f

It's the only proper mask I've used so I have no comparison, the one downside is that condensation does build up inside. Also make sure you remember to do the push-to-check before use to make sure you have a seal.

On that note, does anyone have any suggestions on what replacement filters I should be buying for brick and saw dust? And can you get filters for fumes - as they get to my head much more than they used to.

The one I use is 7502, with the cartridge filters.

I never really wear it for that long so i cant say ive noticed it personally, but then again masks are never that comfy unless you wear the full one over the face.

FYI Jsp one is something like £15 on that new amazon sale thing they've got at the moment.

Thanks. Will get one on order.

Thanks everyone for their recommendations

How to explain this....

Background:

• we are having this room skimmed
  
• the french doors are recessed and there is a wood panel recess(?)/surround
  
• the wall edge of the surround is currently flush with wall, skimming will raise the surface height
  
• to mitigate this I'm fixing a 4mm trim (see attached pics)
  
• to finish we'll add another thin, but wider trim
  
  (birds eye view)
  
  (door frame)
  
  

Problem:
The top strip of the surround is currently too low in the middle in relation to the wall above. Idk what is out of level, the wall, the wood or a bit of both.
As a result when I add my 'raising strip', then there will not be a lip in that middle section to plaster up to.

Question:
What is the best way to fill that gap?

Ideas:

• put a cut off 4mm strip in the middle and then fill it as best I can
  

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Can't you just caulk it?

Bit of backing material / expanding foam as a base then some decorators caulk.

Excellent suggestion.

Right now it's tacked at either end and floating in the middle so I can work out the gap.

I think if I fix some thin spacer strips to bring it level, then caulk the space, that will be the way to go.

I was dreading the prospect of adding wood filler, etc.

Any decorators caulk that people recommend? Or just whatever is cheap at Screwfix.

Allpro pro-stretch but leave it a long time to cure before painting like 24-48 hrs or paint will craze on it. It has huge flex though so good for areas of high movement.
Probably a faster curing product out there for areas of low movement.

Are you skimming over the wood or leaving it exposed?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/nemesis-mighty-decorators-caulk-white-310ml/4774j

Can paint over immediately, no ill effects where I have used it so far.

Plasterer said it will crack due to the pourusness if the wood.

So plastering up to the edge. Then adding these 28x4mm trim moulding things ontop - so it'll look a bit as pictured. We'll then blend them into the inner frame surround thing.

Ideally I'd have liked some sort of shadow gap or way to keep the clean lines of the frame. But figured this really thin beading should get close to that look while covering enough of the plaster that will crack/contract where is meets the wood frame.

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Cheers for the caulk recos

Anyone looked into sliding wall systems for partitioning off part of a room? Want to separate off one end of bedroom into a giant walk in wardrobe rather than the awkward situation we have currently - basically just 3 giant sliding doors.

Should I be looking into building a header and just having door height doors even if sliding?

L-shaped trim, part covering the plaster.

(photo incoming)

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Header or even maybe a recessed track in the ceiling if you have space up there.