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This is a proper tuff question to answer

Good job, Wendy would have charged you a fortune for that!

Maybe? Tourpet masonry filler. Possibly should have pva’d it first but yolo.

Cheers! It’ll prob only last a year or so but hopefully we can get it done properly at some point (ie never).

Most trim paints are suitable wood and metal, already primed & with no corrosion (most) standard (trim) paints will apply fine over that with a little rub down at 180ish*. Personally I wouldn't be confident to take it from oil (as it looks) to wb paint - don't know why tbh / high wear area
-*to de-gloss / get the hand grease off

See if you still feel like that when you've been doing it for five weeks and you can't wait for the weekend to have a rest but you're too tired to do anything but sit on the sofa and potter around because you used up all your energy in the week FML

Hold up, you get to sit on a sofa? I’ve gone straight from diy to monkey wrestling (aka kid).

Drying well.
Using a damp sponge to help blend after it’s half set is a winner.

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pva’d

If you reach for that the try 'stabilising solution' instead (PVA isn't permeable) .

Cheers, may grab some in case this doesn’t hold.

It's not your fuck up, you're doing great, sandstone should not be painted.. if the sandstone with PVA on fails it may want to take the whole lot of filler off - so better without it

Ohhhhh good info, thanks! Yeah imagine the whole thing will fail on the next few years but let’s see if it lasts another one or two.

It's taken a century or so of beating,, all improvement just the surface

Today instead of getting up early and going for a ride, I got up early to investigate a leak on our roof. I cleared out 2 big buckets full on moss and shit from the valleys and reset a couple of bits of lead work. I also found 10 or so loose ridge tiles, so that’s a job for in the week. And I’ll paint the valleys at the back of the dormers with sealant (they are fibreglass) and mastic all the joints. It may not stop the leak, but it won’t hurt either. Fingers crossed!
I fucking hate houses!!!

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I need <15 decking screws to replace the Wendy House deck. Unsurprisingly specific decking screws come in big packs.

I've still got quite a few goldscrew multipurpose wood screws similar to pictured. Is there any reason I can't use these?

Also is there any reason I can't screw from underneath up into the decking boards? I assume screwing down is stronger, but for the application I'd expect it'll be fine and mean big headed wood screws won't create a point of water ingress.

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Also is there any reason I can't screw from underneath up into the decking boards?

When the wood rots there will be a pointy thing sticking into someones foot?

Is there any reason I can't use these?

Not really. Just don't go too nuts on them and have them drive deep in to the wood. The head should sit flush with the surface of the deck.

Cheers.

I think it'll be a long time before the boards rot through, but point taken about a pointy thing directed at little feet

Indoor with water based paints buy nice ones & look after them. Last nearly forever.

Outdoor with oil based paint I go the other way, cheap and nasty, bin after the job.

Not very green.

This tap is leaking slightly from the base of the central spout. There's a screw at the back which I took off, but the centre spout still doesn't come out.

What do I do?

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Looks like there's a notch on that collar where the tap comes out, can you undo that?

Good shout. Yes, I can try that

Masonry paint recs folks? Just bought some satin zinsser for the roof of the bay but open to suggestions for masonry and windows.

Ordered, damn you. And damn their daily "look at this surprisingly cheap thing" emails.

You might be able to strip it and replace the O-ring, but from experience you change it.