Home DIY

Boeufy

Oui

40mm bit diameter. Doesn't fit the normal SDS drills shown - only the SDS Max drill that's laying down. 18mm shank diameter.

The infinity display is giving me a headache

Drilled fine in the end. Corefix are pretty cool and did a good job.

In other news, how would I trim off about 5mm of silestone?

It's for an upstand on a single cabinet and it was originally measured/cut prior to discovering an issue that required a wall repair. So it currently overhangs the flat surface by about 5 mil. Maybe even less tbh but enough to be irritating. I could:

1. Cut it off. How?
   
2. Ignore it. How?
   
3. Chisel into the newly plastered wall and slot it in. Now?
   

See if the company that provided it can cut it, either on site or returned to their factory.

Our kitchen guy said that the people he uses could recut worktops In-situ in future if I upgrade to a 6 burner hob.

Yep, will inevitably go that route but was wondering if anyone had dabbled and could save me the cost by confidently saying "scratch a line with a compass and hit it hard with a tin of beans" or similar.

I imagine wet sanding would be pretty messy?

I am searching for ideas and inspiration for sofas / daybeds combo. I quite like this one: normal 90x200 mattress size, light in looks, can be DIYed, then a thicker duvet cover (which can be cleaned easily), and thick pillows in the back for sitting. Maybe someone has other examples of sofas with no-modification-daybed function?

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All of those make my back ache just looking at them.
For any comfortable sitting option on a soft surface I’d say requirements are slopes on the seat and backrest.

Hm that’s a good point, and explains why our IKEA sofa isn’t that comfortable with almost no slope - but the back is well supported though.

Sofas are such a strange thing.
We have a square de sede, and it makes you wish for a higher backrest and some slope.
And we have two Hannah & Morrison Knoll things like this which are quite ergonomic but lock you into position.

I would probably go for really high back cushions.

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When we were looking there are two options:

1. Sofabeds you can comfortably sit on
   
2. Sofabeds you can comfortably sleep on
   
   

Your starting point need to be what it's main function will be. The one in our eldest's room needed to be a viable second bed. This means it looks a bit shit and isn't that comfortable for prolonged sitting.

Sofabeds - Pretty/Comfy Sofa/Comfy/Bed

Pick two, at most.

We had an Ikea bookfold type job for years, it was a better bed than our main bed, but a TERRIBLE sofa.

We recently got this (but 3 seater in charcoal grey), which is a comfy sofa and a great bed (if you got for the upgraded mechanism).

https://www.dfs.co.uk/honey/hoy24ahno

We found a few that seemed decent for both but they were massive and very expensive.

We ended up going with a sofa and a deep inflatable mattress for when we needed an extra bed.

Whoever built this kitchen is an asshole.
Wanted to get rid of as much crap as is halfway sensible in a rental and go metod and so on, but now it looks like we might get more than 2 power outlets sooner or later.
As I can't live with the fucked sink, rotten surface and shit plumbing anymore I will at least do new surface out of old tabletops I got for free.

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If there are two earth slots in a double socket, one wire goes in both or two in one? Have done one in both but before I switch it on I'm doubting myself. And it's presumably the norm for two live and neutral wires to go in each of their respective slots? Have read people on forums saying you can't lock two wires down cleanly under one screw but sounds like bullshit given it's a double socket designed to do just that.

I think it doesn't matter, neutral and live both have 2 so don't buy the last point either

Current best practise is to put one in each terminal. It’s a bone of contention for some (arguments for and against etc).
No matter what you do, just properly tug test all your terminations and strip your cable so no bare copper is exposed outside of the terminal.

The best way to terminate is to double over the core (on solid cored cables) and insert them side by side then tighten down. Terminating wires well is trickier than a lot of people realise and is probably the bit that worries me the most about DIY electrical work. Loose wires cause fires!

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Thanks. Appreciate this.

Terminating wires well is trickier than a lot of people realise and is probably the bit that worries me the most about DIY electrical work.

Roll on more screwless termination sockets

Well yes and no. Easier to terminate and check but I’m still reluctant to encourage DIY electrical work.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-logic-plus-rapid-fix-13a-2-gang-dp-switched-socket-white-with-white-inserts-5-pack/313PH

At £6 each, it seems daft not to tho tbh.

Ooh, I like the look of those. Funnily when I saw the wires the plasterer had left in the wagos I thought there must be a future where those things just slot straight into receivers on a socket.

I’ve never mended a leaky tap before so now the time has come and advice would be greatly appreciated. The part I’ve arrowed has become loose. I’ve tightened it and naturally it’s loose again.

I know if I’m to pull this apart I need to switch the water off under the sink. But any ideas if this is just a washer or something more complex???

It being filthy might not help.

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Never experienced one that isn't akin to a torture device. Terrible for sitting, terrible for sleeping, the 'mattress' material is often just shredded fabric offcuts, felt and lint which quickly form huge crators after a few months occasional use.
An actual sofa, with a frame welded on the ends and a hammock strung cross it for sleeping, would be an ugly, but so much better solution.

Is it screw or press fit?