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• #38602
It's moot now anyway. The ceiling fell down.
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• #38603
OK, not quite. But it is just a big smooshy sponge of shitty lathe and plaster, and I'm having it replaced entirely.
>>>>>>>>>> IllBeFuckedIfIAmGoingToDIYThatShitThread
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• #38604
.
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• #38605
In the bedroom we had one internal wall that was smooshy lathe and plaster, one internal wall that was fairly recent and sound, two external brick walls where the plaster had been fucked by historic leaks, and a boarded ceiling which had been fucked by said leaks, was (badly) holding up the old cold water tank (something like a 4" sag in the middle) and had been double boarded with the second layer just nailed into the first. Not into joists, just a handful of nails into older plaster board. Most of it came down without tool. Slightly terrifying that we had been sleeping under it all for 18 months.
All now redone, insulated and with acoustic board between the bedroom and the two offices (one wall and the ceiling).
Also - >>>>>>>>>> IllBeFuckedIfIAmGoingToDIYThatShitThread
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• #38606
Want to replace the existing thermostat (simple wall one, not programmable or smart) with something a bit current (Hive?!) that will allow us to set programmes and hopefully save some energy.Will the new unit just need one cable in the permanent live and one on the permanent neutral?! Is it really that simple? We just have a combi boiler and set up seems too straight forward to be true https://www.screwfix.com/p/hive-mini-wireless-heating-smart-thermostat/150pv#product_additional_details_container
2 Attachments
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• #38607
You dont need it, hive works off a switch from the boiler.
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• #38608
I'm pretty sure, but not 100%, if you're planning on replacing that thermostat with a hive one you'd also need to get power to it (so I think they're normally wired in at the boiler).
I replaced a thermostat like that with a netatmo smart one as you only needed the two wires and no power.
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• #38609
@konastab01 well spotted, I rather avoid touching the boiler 🥶 @aggi great! Are you happy with it? Did you get radiator valves too? If you did do you need a temperature sensor on the radiator or does the valve include one?
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• #38610
Yeah I’ve done it a few times(maybe hundreds) 😂
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• #38611
It's fine. Not as smart as some of the others, doesn't do learning schedules or things like that, but let's you set up schedules and control remotely via phone, internet, Alexa, etc and a few other things.
I don't have the valves but pretty sure they have a temperature sensor built in
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• #38612
I've got a bathroom renovation project where I want to move my toilet half a meter to the side. I'm going to do thei with a hidden cistern and build a small wall (1m high, 2m long) around it. We plan to finish the wall with wood panelling, but I'm trying to figure out what I should put under the panelling. The wall is only 100mm thick, but there needs to be 20mm thickness on the panelling for the toilet flush panel. As our panelling is 14mm thick, my idea was to use some 6mm ply behind it. Would that be stable enough for this application or am I better using something else?
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• #38613
Anyone used “block filler” or cement wash to smooth out aerated concrete breeze blocks before painting?
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• #38614
wedi tile backer board? insulated if its an exterior wall?
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• #38615
I just ordered some tools.
FFX referral link gets you £20 off if you use it and gets me £20 off next time.
https://ffx.mention-me.com/m/ol/dy6xj-daniel-laytonMight be useful to someone.
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• #38616
I've got a lot of spots where the skirting board has shifted away from the plaster a bit and have these kind of cracks (place was newly plastered and painted when we moved in so I suspect maybe just down to further drying). We're about to paint this room (just walls, not skirting board), how would people suggest tidying this up? Just a bit of caulk or cut back and take out the broken bits and then caulk after or something else? Cheers
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• #38617
Cut out, fill big holes, re-caulk
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• #38618
Might be an ongoing/seasonal thing. Join from our MDF airing cupboard to the wall just fucking REFUSES to stay caulked. Weighing up nuclear options. But it's in mini_com's room so am not too fussed.
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• #38619
Cheers. That's what I was thinking. It's happened all over the house which is a bit annoying.
Anyone have any particular caulk that they recommend?
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• #38620
If you're exposing any bare substrate (plaster) I'd prime it first (can use mist, bin but probably best bullseye) if it's bridging the existing work I'd give it a good course key and remove dust*. I've been using brewers premium calk, it does not like large gapes will shrink and 24+ hours semi cure, but it's very good.
*then prime for the hell of it -
• #38621
Have you tried CT1 on it?
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• #38622
Induction hob has a crack in it.
Anyone replaced the glass top on theirs before? Replacement top is about half the cost of a similar / slightly better replacement.
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• #38623
I have not. I've had two goes at whatever I was using (which now escapes me - labelled as Decorator's Caulk, but I can't recall the brand). It's been fine elsewhere on funny corners, architrave etc, but this join is a dick. Likely because the hot water tank and pipes inside the cupboard cause 4 seasons in a day.
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• #38624
I have used this in the past with some success. If it's really bad I use the fine scrim as well. Takes ages to feather it all out to make it disappear with the scrim but my hallway skirtings have not cracked in 10 years and next door dug a basement and tore all the internal walls out about 7 years ago. Buy it from wherever, the links are just the first hits on google for me.
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• #38625
It shrinks when it drys to make things worse so you need multiple coats and you can't sand it too aggressively.
This guy’s tiling ATD videos have been making me lol today
https://www.instagram.com/reel/Ck-9SxMqJ_0/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
https://www.instagram.com/reel/ClLpcMDq6IS/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=