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Is that the non fuel one?

Nah it’s the m18 fuel one.

related to windows and frames above,

Any idea on what I should do about this internal window frame? There's a crack that runs all the way around the sides of the frame and if you open the window it wobbles a bit, it's leting in a draft and noise currently. Old old UPVC frames, but the renovation budget hasn't yet stretched to replacing them all yet - so a shorter term fix with filling and painting is planned

Scrape anything loose out and try and fill with expanding foam to lock it in place, or is this a job for a professional?

You can't 'lock' a uPVC window frame into masonry.
The uPVC will react much more quickly to temperature changes, the frame will expand and contract, as you can see in your picture by 2-3-4mm.

You need to apply an elastomeric sealant, one that can accomodate the movement you can see.
The best elastomeric sealants claim '25% movement accomodation factor', in total.
This means you need for a durable waterproof seal, to apply a bead 16mm wide, and around 8-10mm deep between the masonry and the uPVC frame.
Soudal Fix All High Tack Adhesive & Sealant, (Toolstation 84704) comes in white,
so you save the painting you envisaged.

Thank you! This makes sense, I was wondering how it would initially be fixed into the opening - would there be screws from the frame into the brick?

Ive got the M18 brushed one, its ok but vibrated like fuck, get hot hot and isn't as good as the fuel one from when I used someone else's but it was a gift so I'll use it till it breaks and replace it with that one.

Lol, sounds very similar to my brushed makita one. They didn’t have a brushless 18v when I bought it. Vibrates like fuck and gets hot as fuck.
Just seen the makita has gone down in price since it was released though, and you. Can now buy an adapter so you don’t have to buy starlock blades 👀

Quite possibly. Framing screws can just be driven in with a hammer once the hole is drilled. They are usually a rawlplug type sleeve with a ribbed nail that has a philips head on. So sloppy installation can lead to them having some movement. You can fit extra ones retrospectively.

Yep - brushless makes a lot of sense for multi-tools.

I went down the dangerous rabbit hole of "my credit score doesn't think I'm using my credit card enough, ooh ITS has a ton of Fuel kit....". The shopping basket got wildly out of hand before I realised I should wait until my existing tools die or I get a project where I am going to use a particular tool lots and my current one annoys me.

Top of list for replacement are;

Corded non-brand multitool - vibrates like a bastard, cord is annoying, tool/bit change is shit
Corded non-brand trim router - cord constantly gets in the way
Cordless underpowered Bosch circ saw - stalls if you look at it funny
Cordless Draper pin nailer - to consolidate battery types
Cordless Bosch RO Sander - again, to consolidate battery types, nothing actually wrong with it and there isn't a Fuel RO

See if your using it for multiple things, it get so fucking hot you can touch a part of it. The fuel one too has a better light on it.

Unistrut- anywhere I can buy some plus the fittings in person in South London, or South London adjacent? Ideally I’d like to get to handle a few bits to assess how to use it before purchasing

CEF usually have it. Although amusingly the stuff they supply is definitely flimsier than normal. But most likely more than adequate for what you need.

Used mine to cut out a windscreen. The thing wasn’t happy, lol.

The new makita one looks horrendous tho. Looks so bulky and awkward.

As per @Airhead,
and,
there may be a couple of wooden wedges, (sometimes recycled from previous wooden window frame), and some expanding foam to quickly fill the irregular void between the uPVC frame and the masonry.
The foam then allows an inadequate thickness bead of sealant to be applied giving the impression of weatherproofness.

I want to make a frame to hold a solar panel, so it will be triangulated pretty well.

Aye unistrut is ideal, don’t forget to Galv spray any cut ends!

I have some of that on the shelf from another project so will break it out, thanks for the tip.

Ah good you got the proper ones. Loads of shops sell the despecced version, or the brushed one that still says fuel on it, confusing! Like they'll still be good.
I have a year of near full time on the above. The impact is an utter beast, best tool in their range. Have active use of Makita and Dewalt equiv. The Makita is a close 2nd (the lastest one), the dewalt is like a childs toy by comparison. Beware though, in each of the respective '18v' range of each of the big three brands there are versions and sub versions and regional versions so you can't go off USA youtube comparisons so much.

The 12v milwaukee multi tool is amazing, debated about getting it for ages. The blade change isn't as good as bosch or fein (pretty much same thing now/made by same company?). But its small enough, very fast and very accurate at cutting with good blades (fein or bosch blue are the best IME), doesn't walk around so much as my old hand me down 1st gen cabled Fein, and cuts much faster and with dramatically less vibration than many others I've used. Dewalts 18v is ridiculously massive, has a very clever looking blade lock thing, but its so huge that doesn't go the places that the M12 unit does.

The automotive milwaukee M12 and M18 ranges are all basically power houses and rugged. Not for fine work. The drill driver in your set there is a slight let down, the 'e clutch' lowest setting is like the equiv of at least half way up the range on the Dewalt 18v drill which has a very very good mechanical clutch. The dewalt and makita equiv both have much better chucks, only ever occasionally a drill bit comes loose. On the M18 its gonna happen several times a day and throw a drill bit across the room.

Have the non fuel M18 RO.
Part of it broke after a week (look back in this thread, I winged about it a year ago), got a replacement, then did it again. Basically the pad brake is just a thin bit of plastic it wears out very fast if you ever lift up the sander or turn it on a microsecond before contacting the surface.

Have learned to just not do that. Still have an ANCIENT (90s?) Dewalt corded RO that a mate gave us, replaced the bearings, cleaned the brushs works like a champ, but has always had no pad brake, so guess just modern ones are a luxury.

THe M18 RO has done honestly over a 120 maybe 150 hours use by this point (1 year?), walls, floors, endless things that it really wasn't designed for. With a 5.0 M18 pack its heavy but is actually an incredibly good shape, you can hold it about 4 different ways and does get into some tight gaps if you turn it just so. For £60 or £80 for the bare tool, still worth it. 1x 5.0h pack = more sanding than you could realistically do in a day before your arm falls off TBH. So the benefits of brushless being more powerful/less battery usage aren't super relavent on this tool.

What's an RO?

Random orbital

I was gonna buy one of those a few months ago but was thinking they would drop a fuel one and id be raging.

Yeah I want a brushless one too. C’mon Milwaukee