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• #377
Rebuild with brick and then worry about the lining if someone ever re-opens the fireplace?
This.
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• #378
Tying it in- how best?
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• #379
This.
Standard bricks ok?
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• #380
Ones the same size as the originals will really help you.
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• #381
Handily I have a stack of those, they even have mortar on them so I won't need any of that either.
I'll just put them back where they were, like a jigsaw.
Winner.
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• #382
chop out the broken ones, then build it in with the cleaned reclaimed ones you have. Done.
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• #383
Yeah, you are right on all counts.
I was under the impression that the breast had been removed above me, hence doing what I did- but that then turned out to have been inaccurate information.
You live and learn, and indeed get to rebuild stuff you have removed.
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• #384
Right, I won this on eBay last night:
Plus the faceplate for the thermostatic control, I need quite a few bits such as the connector that goes in the bottom of the shower column (pictured).
I am wondering whether to bother however, as some of the info on the web suggests that the column needs 2 bar of pressure to run it.
Can a combi supply that sort of pressure? I'm guessing it is dependant on mains inlet pressure?
I'd like to use the Crosswater stuff, as its well made, decent quality stuff- but I'm not changing the boiler for it!
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• #385
A quick Google shows that typical mains pressure is 4-5 bar, what is the pressure drop across a combi I wonder.
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• #386
If my boiler produces 12 litres/min of hot water, how would I work out what that equates to in terms of pressure?
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• #387
That won't tell you the pressure, that's just how fast it can produce hot water. Power vs torque etc.
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• #388
No idea. Isn't there some maths nerd about.. ?
In short, if the question were to be "Can I have a 'power' shower?" the answer is yet another question, "Have you the right hot/cold water system?" If you have a mains pressured system capable of supplying a minimum hot water flow rate in the region of 12 - 15 litres/minute at as maintained temperature of 55-60 C then the answer would most likely be "Yes." If the system is gravity storage, a pump is necessary for a 'power' shower.
http://www.plumbingpages.com/featurepages/SAqualisaPumps.cfm
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• #389
You could always make some bodge onto to a track pump or any pump with a pressure gauge and see what that comes out with. Then run the hot water tap in the sink to seeif the pressure still holds while the water is running.
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• #390
That might be the best option, I am sure there must be pressure testers for plumbers that I can use.
I don't want to buy parts, install the ting, then find that it dribbles pathetically.
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• #391
I have a pressure tester for my coffee machine so there's got to be flow/pressure meters for water systems. Can't you ask plumber - there's bound to be one on here that'll check pressure for a pint or two.
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• #392
I'll order one- may as well have one for the tool-box.
I've been showering at the gym for so long now, I really want to ensure that the first shower at home in the new bathroom is a good experience!
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• #393
I need to speak to some boiler people and see if one of those new-fangled pressured water heaters will work in my place. If I had adequate mains pressure and installed a pressurized hot water unit, does it remove the need for a cold water storage tank as well as my current immersion heater?
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• #394
As far as I am aware, yes.
You'd end up with this:
But that is a gas combi, you are electric only are you not?
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• #395
Electric-only, yep. I guess it's the same thing for cold water, just the heating element that differs.
Not sure I want to shell out for it yet. Maybe when I stop buying watches and midgets. -
• #396
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• #397
^^ Make the midgets heat the water for you. I have carpentry skills if you want a treadwheel
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• #398
I need to speak to some boiler people and see if one of those new-fangled pressured water heaters will work in my place. If I had adequate mains pressure and installed a pressurized hot water unit, does it remove the need for a cold water storage tank as well as my current immersion heater?
It does, yes. You would need a pressurised storage cyclinder plus expansion tank and all the controls to go with it which includes safety pressure relief components. New installs have 15mm pipe throughout whereas yours may have 22m (3/4" in old money). 15mm is sufficient due to the higher pressures forcing the water through the smaller pipe.
The higher pressures may find weak spots in the old system though (the part fed off the tank).
Are you on economy 7 electric? -
• #400
It does, yes. You would need a pressurised storage cyclinder plus expansion tank and all the controls to go with it which includes safety pressure relief components. New installs have 15mm pipe throughout whereas yours may have 22m (3/4" in old money). 15mm is sufficient due to the higher pressures forcing the water through the smaller pipe.
The higher pressures may find weak spots in the old system though (the part fed off the tank).
Are you on economy 7 electric?Would the press. storage cyl and expansion tank fit into the same space as the immersion heater? The main idea of installing this setup would be to free up some cupboard space by negating the need for cold water tank along with having proper pressure from the bath/shower fitment (the flow almost stops when you get it head height).
Economy 7, yes.
I'd taken photos of the current setup to get a quote with but they must be on the old phone.
Guess it would help if I knew the capacity of the current one. Any idea what's suitable for a 1br flat?
Nah, it's only brickwork between concrete beams.
No load from the stack above is passed beyond the beam.