Home DIY

That's never natural variation it's a completely different tone. I doubt you'll easily lighten the colour without sanding through whatever stain has been used and who knows how deep that will be.

Yeah probably cant see where it was from though might be a spare I guess. There isn't a corresponding shape hole where it should go.
Ta though

i'm not convinced that's natural variation...

you could use some osmo with the white pigment in it (https://osmouk.com/product/polyx-oil-effect-raw/), but i'd think you'd just end up brightening the grains and it looking a bit off. worth a try though if you can't get them to sed you a new piece.

if you fancy being a real knob - i'd ask for them to put a sample against another piece in the workshop and send you a picture.

I'm not sure I'd accept that. Your samples look like white oak, and what they've sent looks like red oak.

Just taken delivery of Forbo desktop linoleum to rejuvinate this sorry looking surface. Am pretty certain the blemishes are caused by moisture so I'm hoping once it's covered they won't continue 'developing'.

Will obviously need to sand it flat, but am unsure how to further prep it or what adhesive to use. Wondering whether it's worth taking the whole venner off and priming/sealing.

Forbo's website says "For flat horizontal surfaces Eurocol 414 Euroflex Lino Plus can be used for Desk Top Linoleum or hessian backed linoleums on an absorbent base". That sounds very specific and am wondering if there's a more generic option.

Any suggestions?

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Therefore, I'm looking for advice on what to oil/stain it with in order to keep the colour as light as possible to match the samples which match our shelves, any recommendations?

Leave it out in the sun for a couple of weeks until it's where you want it. Assume it's not pre-treated.

only half joking tbh

I would think any contact adhesive

Yeah I've sent them an email to push back further, will see what they come back with ...

Anyone boarded the roof of their loft and have some good links / videos bookmarked?

I know I need to leave an air gap in between the tiles and the top of the insulation, but are there any other pitfalls?

Also is shit loft floor insulation and boards + relatively thin loft roof insulation going to be significantly worse than just good loft floor insulation?

Figured I may as well ask the last question, even though in reality my choice is loft roof insulation, or no loft roof insulation. I cannot see how I'm going to be able to clear the loft to redo the floor.

I haven't done it (meant to this summer but never got around to it) but I do have this link saved which might answer your question https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/advice/how-to-insulate-a-loft

I'm going to build a hardwood suspended floor on top of a 20cm thick concrete block & beam floor. the wooden floor will be about 10-15cm above the concrete one
It's the room below is my semi-basement boiler room so it's not heated but it provides the heat for the house.

Would you insulate under the boards or do you think it's not necessary?

Is it essential to have a windowsill? We are enjoying the clean look of a freshly plastered new window without window board.

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other pitfalls

Airflow would be the main thing - you're back building a cold roof, and will need to ensure that there is sufficient flow through the soffit to the ridge vent.

Insulating the loft ceiling instead (which may attract a grant, iirc) would be less risky long term, as you're not messing with existing airflow function.

Plaster isn't a very hard wearing surface, and you could end up with big dings in it.

You need a window sill to put plants on. We have a greenhouse but plants on the window sill get extra attention :)

Thanks. The loft is already insulated, but will check if there are grants for replacing with better insulation.

Thr challenge is that I could feasibly do the loft roof in stages moving things around. Doing the same with the loft floor would be really challenging practicaly imo.

Cheers. I'll check it out.

You'll need something hard-wearing but there are other options than wood. Tile, cement, quartz etc ..

… metals

I wanted a way to reduce the amount of dust and cobwebs but didn't want to do much work. I ended up stapling some tyvek to the roof timbers. Jury is out on whether it works or causes problems, but it makes the lighting much more effective.

Mercury would be shit

Caesium would be a H&S nightmare

Uranium would be nice and dense lithium nice and bright for a bit.

Francium at a billion dollars a gram might stretch the usual kitchen refurb budget

Only the brave