Home DIY

I was literally going to post what would be good to use for the exact same overflow as the rubber has perished.

So plumbers putty?

Oh that overflow is horribly specifically shaped! Could you get a flat piece of silicon and cut a rectangular hole in it?

Where do I get that from over the counter like screwfix etc

Slap it on, squidge it in, clean off the excess - should do the trick.

Ebay probably has a seller of aftermarket spares for Ikea and other proprietary crap.

Where do I get that from over the counter like screwfix etc

No idea, I was just brainstorming. A bit of googling suggests to me that rubber capping strip might be a better bet, just cut some to length and bend it into a rectangle. If you google that or "rubber H strip" or "rubber U strip" you may find something.

Hard to see from your pic, but it looks like the pressure relief valve from your boiler has been discharging. See the staining on the wall under the small copper pipe.
The waste pipework in that area doesn't seem to be connected to anything in the building. The fact that it just terminates with what looks like an open end is wrong too and may be causing bad odors but this is a separate issue.
As I say it's hard to see in the pic bit it may well be time to get the boiler checked out.

No

Rive guach is correct this should only be hand tight, any tool used on it will just thread it. Hence why it's all made of plastic not metal.

Do elaborate - I'm sure @ffm would appreciate it.

Not the fitting the silicone.

Something like this http://www.diy.com/departments/evo-stik-putty/191081_BQ.prd

I need to return something to there anyway

That's plumber's putty, that is. Pretty much any hardware store should have it.

The bit wont be under pressure so it should be fine even though it's plastic.

Do elaborate - I'm sure @ffm would appreciate it.

Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaase!

I've fitted these before, the cheap shit IKEA waste trap arrangement is not fit for purpose. Resorted to using drain down-pipe clips and bracketry to stress relieve the trap and ensure a good seal.

buy cheap buy twice

i think @sacredheart was referring to this post > http://www.lfgss.com/comments/12021329/

i think @sacredheart was referring to this post > http://www.lfgss.com/comments/12021329/

I don't think so, @sacredhart was replying to @TW

The boiler discharging is a known fault that was rectified a while ago. Looking at it again, the patch of damp inside the building doesn't match up to any of the pipework on the outside. Could it be a patch of bad brickwork letting water in? The damp patch itself is roughy brick-shaped...

gah!

#losttheplot

The damp patch itself is roughy brick-shaped...

Is there an air-brick on the outside?

Not that I can see.

Yay more new house woes.

Wardrobes are too tall, fuck you Sweden and your castle like abodes.

Two options.

1. Hire circ saw and cut 6 panels - £30 ish
   
2. Get a grown up - £60 (cheapest)
   
   

If option 1, how do you stop Melamine from chipping, is there a particular blade you ask for when hiring or is masking tape not up to the job

No More Nails

@ncjlee as I say I can't really see much from the pic I just saw the stain below the prv. Someone needs to get on a ladder to find the issue.
Staying on the plumbing, the exterior waste pipework needs sorting it shouldn't terminate like that.

@ffm sorry I said 'no' in reference' to the use of putty or silicone on a trap. It should seal with the rubber washer provided hand tight. I agree with the previous comment on ikea plumbing fittings being dogshit.

1 - fine teeth blade
2 - mask and mark both sides exactly
3 - set up a full length side fence to provide a straight support
4 - first cut on back side to a depth of 1/4" / 6mm
5 - turn it over and full depth cut - feed the saw or workpiece evenly in one smooth pass
6 - if done with precision the second cut teeth wont have any laminate edges to grab/push and creat chips
7 - remove tape /no chips