-
Haven't exploded or caught fire yet. Cable running down the right of the upright is terminated with a 13A plug which goes into the extension lead from an external socket when I want power. 6A lighting circuit done. White cable from the choc box (with wagos inside) has a proprietary connector on the other end for the LED strip light. That then has another cable coming out the other side to connect it to a second strip light (waiting for that as the first one was an out of box failure, being replaced by Toolstation with no faff).
The right hand switch doesn't do anything yet. Might use it for a security light when the shed eventually has permanent power (I will get an actual spark to hook that up to one of the spare circuits on the house CU).
Next step is sockets, which should be a breeze compared with the lighting fun. I am planning a ring with four double 2 pole sockets. The far end of the ring coming back along the roof ridge beam with half an idea to fit a hanging socket when I have my central workbench. Or some kind of retractable number. That should be fairly easy to add to the ring in future.
1 Attachment
-
-
If you changing the full valve stick in a drayton, can change the head if it goes again far easier than that.
-
Painting laminate kitchen units. Not sure I would do it again. Started the process with a grey Bullseye primer but that wouldn’t stick and had to come off. Then went for Bin 123 in white, which is hideous to work with but did the job. Grey Bullseye on top of that then a mid grey exterior eggshell, two coats. Much sanding between coats, particularly after the Bin. During my research I found some guy who recommended 5 top coats of oil based eggshell but there must be easier ways to drive yourself insane.
-
Thanks. It’s ‘chine green’.
-
Got the grease off with sugar soap then a wet sand with wet and dry. The Bullseye still slid off. I thought about using a shellac clear coat instead of the 123 as the 123 is such a bastard to work with, but I already had the 123. What etching liquid would you recommend? I still have five to do.
-
Also on the painting front, almost there with the front of our house.
Had some dustless blasting pros take the paint off the main brickwork a couple of months ago, but the rest done myself as they didn’t touch the little front wall or any of the sandstone.
Zinsser Bulls Eye + All Coat for the door/window frames and masonry sills.
Colours haven’t turned out quite as I’d hoped - the light grey was meant to be a warmer taupe colour - but a lot better than it looked before.Just done the first coat of double-boiled linseed oil on the bricks, will do another tomorrow and hopefully that’s it for now (pending house number/new PIR light)
2 Attachments
-
-
I've used this one with some success but you might have a particularly difficult surface.
Have you made sure you are stirring the 123. There is also a new 123+ which is a tiny bit more sticky and opaque. You need to stir it regularly though.
If it's doors you're doing it's good to get them off the cabinets and paint them laid flat with a small foam (or similar) roller.
-
Emboldened by your comments, I had another go with just the Bullseye after a vigorous wet sanding. It held up a bit better, and two coats did the job. It’s certainly a relief to be able to avoid the Bin, so thanks for that. It will save me a few hours overall.
I have been taking the doors off and working flat but have been using a brush rather than a roller. The cabinets are cheap ones from B&Q in some kind of hideous wood effect. The new paint job is preventing us from ordering a skip for them. I’ll post a photo of progress when there’s some natural light in the room.
-
Well I'm pleased if it helps to hear a bit of encouragement. Brushing kitchen doors is not that easy, a lot of experienced decorators struggle especially with acrylic paints.
123 catches a lot of people out because it's so thin. I usually use 123, then an undercoat (which will generally have more opacity and body) matching the top coat followed by 2x top coat.
-
thank you! I remember you mentioning the white gloss aspect a while back, but couldn't convince my other half to go with white in the end.
I used the Bulls Eye 123 plus, found it went on without any issues on the PVC, though with roller I was getting very thin coats each time - but much more consistent than using a brush.
Ended up slathering the top coats on with a brush to get a decent build up of paint, and then rolling over to get the streaks out, seemed to work alright in the end.
Bobbo
Sharkstar
stevo_com
konastab01
jellybaby
J0nathan
Airhead
hvsds
Polygon
M4xime-
Post a reply
About
Home DIY
Posted by
@hippy
Brilliant