Home DIY

Anyone put up blinds directly next to each other?

Yes. Slatted blinds. We were on a budget so bought 3 sets from Dunelm and put them next to each other. It worked fine.

They drew up into a sort of box thing which had a wood facia(sp?) secured with velcro onto the box. The fixing holes were oval so you had wiggle room to get them all lined up. Getting all the facias lined up neatly took two of us longer than expected, but it wasn't hard - if that makes sense?

Obvs the whole thing wasn't as slick as proper nice custom blinds. But I think all in it was under £100 vs >£1k

So I can manage expectations, how long does the hive think it will take a novice to replace 400 7x28 tiles in an already fitted kitchen.

• 5 clear hrs to remove the old tiles
  
• an evening of tidying up the surface
  
• 3 evenings to lay them
  
• 1 evening to grout
  
  

Does that feel right?

I removed a full tiled kitchens worth of tiles once and my memory was ripping through 80-90% in no time then spending forever on the remainder.

Also if anyone has a good YouTube that would be appreciated.

Cheers.

Thanks!

Need to have a think now. Think we're actually got to go for some of the "perfect fit" things now. Not as nice as wood slate, but as they attach directly to the window we can still open the windows and have them recessed.

The tidying up could take a lot longer. We just took about 15 tiles off a wall and the plaster came away too in places.

Removing tiles is a mine field, could end up with a replaster if the wall comes away which it usually does.

Hmmmm...

I guess I'll just have to try and go carefully.

The main thing at the moment is I'm trying to figure out is when I can do a noisy, dusty job which could take a while with no kids around, but not at an unsociable hour.

8 X 70 x 5mm screws into 8mm plugs. Have some screw head covers coming that will be painted the same colour.

1 Attachment

Is the Charlie DIYte still the gold standard for siliconing?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DI4hfHM_Hg

Can I bury a fence post base with a square foot in the wet postcrete, or should I bolt it to the top. After its dried.

I figure it's more secure if it's been buried

Think i've decided a circular saw is going to be more useful to me than a jigsaw for home DIY jobs. Mainly cutting shelves, building units etc. Does anyone have any recommendations for circular saws and work benches to use them with. I've seen there's a ton of DIY setups involving clamps etc to build guides but i wouldn't mind investing in something more user friendly/adjustable.

You mean a metal bracket?

If it's buried, water will get in, but not out, and it will rust.

All yours, drop me a pm to arrange delivery

Post base, galvanised and powder coated.

The spike version is meant for burying presumably

I thought spikes were for smacking in the ground, I think the ones for concrete have a fin on the bottom to lock it in?

A track saw will probably be more convenient than a circular saw. The rail makes things much easier. Peter Millard on YouTube has decent reviews of a bunch of them.

I have a Workzone/Sheppach from Aldi which I upgraded with a high toothcount Freud blade (maybe 40T?) and a 1400 mm Makita rail. It's great, especially hooked up to a shop vac with an auto-on socket.

Mine has a flat square flange to bolt down flat to a concrete base. But would there be any issue with just burying it in concrete so that the flange is held in by the mass of concrete

I have a DeWalt cordless. I’d agree it is used more than a jigsaw. As regards workbenches I would recommend one with holes in such as an MFT and clamps that fit in the holes. As others have said, you might find a track saw more generally useful still.

Cheers, bud - PM incoming.

@exteroceptive @Sharkstar cheers, plunge saw is a great shout. I have an old Henry somewhere i could use with the right setup

Anyone for fire place advice?

The centre piece of the hearth has slightly 'fallen back' into the fireplace leaving a 2-3cm gap and a huge draft.

You can pull it back into place and it looks like there should be holding bolts to secure it to the front of the fireplace. It then just

Any idea of how to refix it without taking off the fireplace from the wall?

1 Attachment

Millard is the track saw king. I think he has about five.

What situations does a circ saw beat a plunge saw? Just smaller cross cuts if you can't be bothered getting the mitre saw out?

Can you somehow hold or wedge it in place for long enough for glue to go off, if indeed you can apply enough of the the right type of glue to the right edges...

The spike version is for earth, not concrete.

Even galvanised & coated, being almost permanently wet is not going to do it any favours.

How deep are you thinking of burying it? How will you bolt it if it is buried?

Can you remove any of the front, or the mantel and reach into it to do the bolt up or hook it back on? I remember ours was fairly easy to take on and off the wall.