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• #3327
^^
It's a new build (completed last year) so i'm assuming that all the wiring has passed certain tests. When i removed the socket currently in place (two switches, independently operating two lights), only the live wires were connected to the L1 and Common junctions on the back.
The earth and neutral wires all appear to be as in the photo for the three plates i've taken off so far.
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• #3328
Such as hallway lighting?
Right I am not a sparky, was NICEIC trained (a few years ago) as part of work and I'm trying to figure out how it is wired but that is not the point. That is just me thinking it is a power socket, yes I have seen them wired like this.
Go buy (if you don't have some) some thin yellow and green wire and connect it to opposite side of the yellow and green screw connector and then to the face plate.
Do you need a hand? PM me and we can swap numbers and talk about it.
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• #3329
Such as hallway lighting?
One if for an outside light (single switch wallplate), another if for a dimmer switch controlling 6 overhead LED spots and the final one (pictured) is for over head spots and under cabinet spots for the kitchen.
I think i have some earth wiring somewhere so i'll cut a length and run it from the stuff that's in there to the plate on each.
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• #3330
It's a light switch
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• #3331
Quick one for the electricians:
I'm changing some sockets from plastic to metal which means the front plate needs to have a neutral wire attached to it.
Inside the wall box is this:
I'm guessing that the green / yellow neutrals are just left there for if we need to use them? If so, do i need to attach both? (one is just out of picture, being held out of frame by me, at the top)
The Green/Yellows are the Earths NOT the Neutrals (the blue ones are neutral). This is very important to remember.
However, you are correct about connecting the metal plate to the earths in the choc bloc, you can do it to both sets if you want but only one is necessary.
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• #3332
Right I am not a sparky, was NICEIC trained (a few years ago) as part of work and I'm trying to figure out how it is wired but that is not the point. That is just me thinking it is a power socket, yes I have seen them wired like this.
Is this the NICEIC 3 day 'kitchen fitters course'? They aren't worth anything apart from satisfying the idiotic Part P regulations.
This is what is known as 'looping in', it can be done at the ceiling rose or the switchplate. Either is acceptable. As this is for spotlights where a ceiling rose isn't going to be used this is the prefered way as all the connections are easily accessible for inspection and testing.
3 year C&G qualifications and 12 years industry experience under the belt...
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• #3333
I am reliably informed that Actual Tradespeople use this thread, so I am cross-posting this request from the Jobz forum:
Does anybody on here have the skillz and resources to fix/replace a broken window hinge? Double glazing type, outward-opening.
To be clear, I am looking for a real live breathing (professional) human being to come to my house and fix this for me, for monetary recompense. I am neither looking for advice on how to fix it myself, nor discussions about the best way to fix it.
Last call for either a forum tradesperson or a forum recommendation before I turn the job over to some van-driving bellend instead.
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• #3334
I need to replace a load of decking. Specifically, I have ordered 21 lengths will need about 20 cm chopped off the end of each. Handsaw? Hire a power saw? Buy a power saw? Get a man in??
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• #3335
Borrow, failing that, hire. Unless you see yourself doing more of this in the future.
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• #3336
A saw, not a man. Unless you can get reasonable rates.....
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• #3337
yeah I reckon it's just a morning's job if I can lay my hands on a decent saw
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• #3338
If you can't get hold of a circular saw, get down to B&Q and pick up a hand saw for under a tenner. It will cut your decking just fine. Will be blunt as all holy hell after but cheaper than hiring a powered one. Practically disposable.
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• #3339
Well I've got one of those in the shed already...
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• #3340
Where are you?
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• #3341
Plumbing skilled people. My hot tap drips permanently. How much and who will fix? Soon.
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• #3342
Sacredhart is your man by all accounts.
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• #3343
Probably the washer. Fairly easy to DIY or cheap enough to get someone to fix it.
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• #3344
Entirely depends on the tap. If it's a mixer / shower job you might have to replace the whole Dalek style springy metal core thing... more pricey.
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• #3345
It's an ancient mixer. Have pm'd sacredhart.
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• #3346
I need to replace a load of decking. Specifically, I have ordered 21 lengths will need about 20 cm chopped off the end of each. Handsaw? Hire a power saw? Buy a power saw? Get a man in??
Are you not a man yourself?
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• #3347
Where are you?
High Wycombe
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• #3348
Are you not a man yourself?
Hell yes
with very little time though :(
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• #3349
Go to DIY superstore. Buy cheap jigsaw / powersaw and a few blades. Cut wood. Keep saw. Use saw for other jobs.
My £20 jigsaw from wickes has lasted for 10 years now. I've used it to board the loft, make furniture, fit flooring and fix a hole in the roof. It's paid for itself 100 times over.
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• #3350
My £20 jigsaw from wickes has lasted for 10 years now.
It takes me ages to do these as well.
Then you find the last piece is missing...
It's very small, are you making dolls houses?