Home DIY

Yes, it’ll look great once they’ve been.

Yeah. And it'll be a nice feeling once everything is one even surface.

Are you keeping the light? If so take it off before they start. If not, double check that the hole isn't bigger that the fitting bracket for the light you're putting in it's place.

In the spirit of just cracking on (mainly because my OH was out), I managed to switch my socket for a USB one and trim my free work bench draws to length.

Socket installation was the embodiment of every 5min DIY job ever. The box had a load of tile adhesive in the top so the socket could fit. Had to shave it back, one of the box screw fittings was a bit fucked - explaining why the old socket was always on the piss. It's still not 100% level, but it's now very close and it works.

After spending ages planning and over designingprocrastinating on the draws, I just took a jigsaw to the excess wood and a Stanley knife to the hardboard. Redrilled holes, screwed it all together. Not pretty, but I realised they are free old semi-fucked bed draws and treated them accordingly.

Still got the wheels to go on. Thanks to @aggi for the ikea wheels. They are just the ticket.

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Whoever specced my house sockets added USB ones in every room and they're very convenient to just neaten stuff up and free up some sockets.

A bit late now but that USB C socket doesn't really seem to have any advantages over an older USB socket (other than if your cables are USB C). It doesn't do any of the PD stuff for fast charging and the output isn't much higher (and most devices won't take the full power).

That IKEA spare parts service is very convenient. Useful for getting the brackets that attach drawers, etc to the wall (I just used to bin them pre-children).

TBH socket choice was down to a mix of price charging speed and both style of USBs.

I only really expect to use one at a time anyway. But we don't have loads of USB C cables and most are C to C so thought one of each was future proofing... In so far as you can future proof anything any more.

Tool question:

My folks have an ancient Bosch hand electric screwdriver.

Question 1 is whether you can replace batteries on old things like this.

Question 2 is if anyone has a cheapish equivalent, and whether they'll actually work.

Cheers.

B&Q had the 3.6v cordless screwdriver for £20. I have it and love it.

Bosch hand screwdriver.

Pretty sure homebase, of all places, has some pretty good bosch prices atm.

B&Q back up to £32 on their website now

£29 at homebase

There's quite a good article from Dulux looking at the painting process after plastering.

https://www.dulux.co.uk/en/expert-help/dr-dulux-painting-on-new-plaster

I've seen quite a few walls painted too soon or without a mist coat where the paint fails to stick to the wall.

Stripping wallpaper is one of the worst jobs, looks like you've done well.

Screwfix have a well reviewed Macalister one for £15, but has a proprietary charger. What I like about the Bosch is that it's micro USB.

Cheers I'll check it out. That sounds perfect.

ceiling rose has just dropped in partners flat and pulled wire through. will have to fix it at the weekend, what is the standard go-to product to fix?
i’m guessing there is something like ‘no more nails’ but better?
coving adhesive?

Need to seal/caulk a few things. Around a window (indoors), counter top, and probably the tub could use another application. Is there something I can get for all of these purposes?

Counter top and tub could both be done with the same silicone, if colour choice allows it. I'd probably go for acrylic on the inside of the window, but that could depend on how it's done on the outside.
But it sounds like you'd need more than one tube no matter what, so buying two different kinds wouldn't be a problem?

I think I mentioned this before here ages ago, I have some big love for this paint. I used to use expensive dulux paint, went to buy some more and the man from jempsons suggested this stuff: never looked back, about half the cost of dulux too. I used it to fully repaint old weatherboard house, at least twice probably three times in 15 years, it’s dries with a slightly flexible coating, very very forgiving, can get it mixed to any colour, would highly recommend

Thanks! That's what I figured. Trying to be a bit less wasteful (and cheap). No luck.

I think CT1 could cover all those uses. I've not done it myself because I have a load of open sealants for different purposes. CT1 is paintable but also very good in baths and showers.

Sealants Online is a great resource if you have time for a deep dive.

https://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/

What’s the standard way to finish a solid wood floor around a slate hearth? I really don’t want any raised “trim”. Have seen some really nice finishes in the past but can’t recall anything online.

The boards run into the hearth rather than parallel so I will put a parallel piece on the front edge of the hearth but I have no idea what to do with the left/right boards to create a nice join.

Any ideas!

Mitred frame of the same wood as the floor looks nice. Handy if you consider that before laying the floor though. It is possible to do it after the fitting but it takes a little bit more fiddling.

It's a shame you don't want the raised trim because it's the easiest one. You can make a thin tapered piece of contrasting or similar wood and glue a piece to the back of it that holds it in the gap. They are a pain to mitre because of the curved surface so best to mitre them before you put the taper on.

A more elegant form of this :-

https://www.loveskirting.co.uk/flooring-thresholds-c17/by-species-c30/oak-c33/solid-oak-edge-trim-p533/s14418?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=solid-oak-oak-edgetrim-length-1-6-metre-rebate-12mm-finish-unfini-length-1-6-metre-rebate-12mm-finish-unfinished-oak-edgetrim1-6-metre12mmunfinished&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&cid=GBP&gclid=Cj0KCQiAzMGNBhCyARIsANpUkzOowX5xpqcWuKcOVg_PG79MrRUSGGhb1Cd5pQy456-M34f72dXNZaQaAl7aEALw_wcB

Yeah I think I’ve now realised I should have planned this detail before arriving at the hearth with 60% of flooring done 😅.

On the right side of the hearth I’ll have 50% of a board so I can see how the mitred detail would work there as I can also make the front piece 50% of board width - fingers crossed it’s the same on the other side though right!!

It does still leave you with the gap you need to be able to fit it. Could be as little as 3mm, sealant might be the best option. Not sure if the floor is floating though but you have to consider expansion.

That's why I like the other type because you can work a way to put them in loose and they allow the floor to move without a gap showing.