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  • Never use wire cutters for stripping

    You’re going to have to have a word with all the electricians I work with then, lol.
    The key is learning to score the sheath or insulation enough that it’ll strip without going all the way through to what’s below - either the insulation beneath, or the conductor itself.

    I use these, they have strippers for 1.5 and 2.5mm cores, and I use the cutters for the sheath and any cable cores thicker than 2.5mm. Everyone else I work with just uses a pair of snips or a knife tho.

  • Learning the knack of using cutters/pliers is better IMO

    It's not better, it's just faster.

    After the years of learning!

  • It doesn’t take years, there’s a fairly straightforward technique (I say straightforward, I gave up trying to explain it to the apprentice, bless him) and it definitely helps to have a decent set of pliers/cutters. I’ll try and take a video later if I get the chance. Essentially you grasp te cable in your left hand, point your thumb on your left, and pivot the pliers where the hinge is on the top of your thumb, a bit like the motion of using a bottle opener. Because of the leverage it’s easier to snap off the insulation when it’s just been scored rather than having to cut it all the way through.

  • It's not so important in domestic as wring in fixed locations and little chance of vibration. But industrial and transportation a must.

  • I've got some knippex ones that seem very good. I had spent the last ten years just using a Stanley knife though.

  • What wires are you stripping?

    Probably 2.5mm twin and earth and 2.5 or 1.5mm 3 core cable.

    I've always used a sharp knife plus pliers or a leatherman or my hands. But TBH I find it a bit of a faff, usually results in stripping too much cable and the cutting section on my pliers isn't that great.

    So all in all an automatic set appealed as I might be doing a reasonable amount sometime soon. Albeit only for that one sesh.

  • Treat yourself to the knipex multifunction pliers. You won’t regret it.

  • Hmmmm... I'm pretty much sold.

    On the review I watched they put a ferrule on and crimped.

    Why?

    https://youtu.be/D7sRVMKu5Mo

    (1.45)

  • You can put ferrules on stranded cables like flex where the copper is made up of lots of thin strands. The thin strands are easily damaged when you’re tightening a terminal screw so by adding a ferrule you get a more mechanically durable connection that provides a better electrical connection too.

  • Cheers. That makes sense.

    I do have a set of proper crimpers. For bike wiring, but the stripping looks pretty easy and reliable

  • I took a punt on these ridiculous cheapies and found they work pretty well:
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Automatic-Wire-Strippers-Cutter-Pliers-0-2mm-6mm-Parrot-Nose-Cutters-/284345891878

    They cut any size without adjustment and without nicking the conductor and they’re very satisfying.

  • These are great tools. I have the spring loaded ones. Not sure if that's better but I've got used to it. The smooth tips are great for holding a copper conductor if you need to move it carefully.

  • That'll be fine right,?


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  • I’d definitely want to isolate it and open the box to see wtf is going on.

  • It's not connected to anything any more ha. Been stripping out the old wiring, and that was under a newish positive input device. Other wires chased on the shortest route(diagonally) etc.

  • Aha! The cut off wires on the side had me worried.

  • Tool for life, until you use them to trim a gear cable 🤦🏽

    Worst part is I just checked my tool chest. The actual CK cable snips are right here.

  • Tool for life, until you use them to trim a gear cable

    Despite the “do not cut steel” printed on my pliers, I absentmindedly cut a steel cable outer with my fancy pliers. Cue careful filing and much swearing.

  • Not actually DIY, but having an extractor fan fitted in the bathroom. Shower is on the far left and creates most of the moisture.

    Logic says position A, but it will be an eye sore and my partner is not keen.
    Alternative is B, more hidden but it is above the boiler - is this legal (will be a different wall to the flue) and also, will being above the boiler mess with airflow and the humidity sensor?
    C is the worst of both worlds but may have to settle for it.

    Any thoughts welcome.


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  • I don't have any advice on location but I would suggest buying a unit that user reviews state is silent. we have a unit in an internal cloakroom toilet and it was specced by the builder (so cheapest of the cheap low end choice) - thing sounds like an airbus. this has its upsides (discretion) but we'll probably swap it out eventually

  • Yeah, I did a lot of reading and went for a well reviewed 'silent' one.
    There is nothing in there right now so I assume that anything will be an improvement.

  • In line or direct? Presumably no space of any ducting in ceiling.

  • Direct I think. Fan on wall inside, hole thru wall, grille on outside.
    It's the bit out the back of a victorian terrace so both walls are external.

  • Any thoughts welcome.

    Location shouldn't be that important as far as efficiency is concerned. If it's getting rid of humid air, the humidity will quickly spread to all parts of the room. I'd put it wherever's easiest.

  • Any thoughts welcome.

    As it's going to be direct I'd go B. to hide it. While I agree with trying to get something quieter with 2 external walls I'd make extraction volume the priority. Although having a boiler in the room will probably help a lot.

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Home DIY

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