Home DIY

Thermostat - it's a basic old Honeywell one, it has a dial to set the temp, and nothing else. But the dial has lost its 'grip' so no idea what we're calibrating to really. It's also positioned next to a draughty kitchen door. Could DIY replace with the same model but would like to get one with a timer and ability to move the heat sensing bit around, but the wiring diagrams don't look relatable.

Most of the smart thermostats provide instructions on how to DIY replace an existing wired one. I would say most would cover the Honeywell models. The instructions basically tell you how to number/label the wires and then says "connect 1 here, 2 there, 3 over here" etc. Doesn't really solve the heat sensing unless you go down the route of adding more stuff to it.

Both diyable - 1st one depends on how the toilet been fitted and access - turn off incoming water to the cistern, move toilet forward and the flexi waste pipe will come off - held by a rubber seal effectively
second one is doable - if its a straightforward combi system then its simple wiring
alternatively get a plumber in to do both for you

Most of the smart thermostats ... Doesn't really solve the heat sensing unless you go down the route of adding more stuff to it.

What is a smart thermostat? We don't have smart anything in the house really, is it just the ability to set a timer? The ability to move the sensor away from where the wired in bit is more desirable than the timer, but both would be good.

I didn't know that plumbers wire things?
Not sure there is a stop for just the loo, so to avoid draining the whole house, is just tying up the float an option?

we have hundreds of what seem to be fruit outside the back of our house, rear of a mid terrace, no bins kept out there, theyre all over our windows all up the whole 3 stories of the house..

none inside.. any ideas why this might be happening?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BunKx8oy794

Plums, maybe?

Replacing a flexible connection is easier than most other types and they usually seal first time. It's just that any work with toilets can be unpleasant. Gloves, plastic bags and some old towels are helpful. Does seem odd that it's frayed though.

I'm never sure whether it's worth moving a thermostat because you can just offset the amount by which you think it is colder than the rest of the living area. If you wanted to do to the relatively standard honeywell mobile battery operated thermostat that connects by radio to a box connected to the boiler you might be able to position that box where the current thermostat is but it doesn't make much sense. You would wire the receiver directly to the boiler and then the battery operated bit connects to it and can be placed wherever. That's a very basic, not smart system that's probably the most normal type in homes at the moment.

https://www.electricaldirect.co.uk/product/honeywell-home-rf-dt92e1000-wireless-digital-room-thermostat-white-611235

They have a range of similar types.

I'm trying to decide if a smart one would be better for my own use at the moment.

had a surveyor round to advise on what needs doing to solve damp issues.

One point was to remove render to above DPC level as it is currently going all the way to the ground. This will allow the wall to breathe where the damp is and also stop any damp working its way behind the render from touching the ground.

May DIY it, what tools would be required? Angle grinder? impact drill with chisels? Anyone advise against DIY?

maybe plumber wasn't the term - heating engineer is what they call themselves
Tie the float and flush

i.e control and set the heating from your phone

Out of curiosity, you might have said before, what's the floor inside?
I had to take up some mouldy self leveling compound that was put down on damp concrete and masonry paint on walls, and the walls and floor dried in front of me.

Concrete flooring with engineered fake wood stuff ontop with a plastic sheet membrane between. Surveyor was suitably happy the floor was OK.

It is unclear if there is a membrane under the concrete and linked to the DPC to form an impervious layer but I assume not so the concrete is probably somewhat damp.

The skirting board in direct contact with the floor however is OK and doesn't have elevated dampness at all.

He's going to share a full list of recommendations, he was somewhat stumped too as he said usually there is something glaringly wrong.

I'm ok with the levels of unpleasantness from a single loo. I take it you need to unbolt and move the loo? There's very little room behind it. But the bolts are also rusted.

That thermostat sounds like the kind of thing I'm looking for. Might need to get someone in to do the wiring if it doesn't make sense to wire into the same place as the old one though.

I see, don't think that's really what I'm after.

It's actually relatively easy but there are more than a few wires involved so you do need to be sure you're connecting them properly.

A photo of the loo would help to answer a lot of questions about what you need to do to change the waste pipe.

You can get moisture resistant Mdf. Used it to encase the pipes under our boiler. Peter Millard is a fan, which is good enough for me.

Yeah, I've seen that. I was hoping there would be an easy way to make use of the shelves that came with it. I did a bit of reading around and there seems to be a million different options and every thread just deteriorates into "improve ventilation/treat the source of the damp" etc.

Probably just slap a few coats of whatever we have left in the cellar over them. If it works, great. If it doesn't, then it's new shelf time.

I chopped out a window to create a door. Doors now fitted, but I have some internal gaps to make good.

What product do I need do make that little transition on to the bricks smooth? Something that doesn't mind being laid thin? Would be good if I can use the same thing for the bigger hole that was once the cavity.

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thing for the bigger hole that was once the cavity.

Cavity closers are a thing.

Sorry, I only just looked at your link. I see what you mean. Some polyurethane varnish will probably be your best bet.

That looks just the thing for that gap. Pretty sure something like that went in when the walls were repaired, but the floor was left like that.

What's under the decking?

Space, mostly. It currently finishes about 20cm below that new door, then minus the joist height, set on slab pillars, with a membrane of some sort to stop anything growing.

is this stuff really as good as 45mm foam insulation

https://www.toolstation.com/thermawrap-self-adhesive-shed-insulation/p69456

and can you lay it under plasterboard or does it rely on the reflective qualities to work?

It's only for a shed so doesnt need to be incredible, but should I just bite the bullet and get 25mm Ikotherm boards to go under plasterboard?

any scottish users installed linked fire/smoke and heat alarms to comply with the incoming regs... and have a recommendation ?