Home DIY

Having re-read this I realise you were expecting a breakdown on what's involved in building these doors.

So just to clarify, the reason I've not done that is because there's so much involved that personally I'm not going to commit the time to describing the process to you. Maybe someone else will though.

I think you've made that clear, don't worry - I have no expectations of any advice (or similar) from you on this subject.

Rather, I was looking for "you'll need to consider the following".

The term you're looking for is Carriage Doors. Plenty of YT videos or instructables pages.

You've already had the advice, you just don't like it because you think I'm underestimating you.

I think I have my measure but you now have the opportunity to prove me wrong. It will be hard to do though, very likely too hard.

I didn't think that garage doors were, of all things, going to lead to such a cock measuring contest today. You live and learn.

Garage doors and the use of possessive pronouns. Not usually topics to inspire heightened emotions, but we live in strange times.

if that makes sense?

Yep. I was assuming you would need to build a timber frame within the opening as I couldn't see that in the last photo you posted (garages you're trying to buy). If that's not the case then you're all good opening-size-wise and can ignore me :)

Hadn't clocked those hinges either. They solve the "door in the way" issue.

If you ever forsee a situation where you're going from one garage to the other you'd have to go a bit further (minor inconvenience), but also would be quite isolated from one garage when you were in the other and might not see someone coming to swipe your bikes/tools/whatever (non-minor inconvenience), when with an up and over door you have a bit more visibility. This might be a non-issue based on location though, if it's not a through route?

EDIT: I'm a few pages too late. Just thinking of practicalities of actually having the doors, not how you'd build them. I'm not the person to advise on that!

Who ever recommended getting all the lumens for cellar lights, thanks! Finally boarded the ceiling and fitted a couple of 6ft LED tubes. Now I can see all the dust and spiders. Next step is tidying up all the plumbing down, repainting and a workbench below the window.

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You think we're measuring what? You really are taking this advice badly. If you want to do some measuring then start with the brick opening for the garage and work out how much timber you need. That might be a good place to start.

Your posts are coming off somewhat aggressive and dismissive. This is a DIY thread on the world's friendliest forum where people usually receive such advice as 'here's a video showing I watched on that topic' or 'My mate Bill tried that, his look great' or even in the case of the mighty Colin, 'I've done that, here's a plan, cost estimate, my phone number and dates I can do'.
You've offered very little advice other than 'don't bother'. Not really the DIY attitude.

You really are taking this advice badly.

It's being given with a singular lack of charm too.

Door teim.

I need to fit a door for my garden room - as it's going to be clad to match the rest of the building, I'm going to be buying a solid core blank and trimming to size.

• The frame is awkwardly wide at 975mm, giving me the choice of buying a 1220x2440 blank, and trimming, or a 915x2100 blank and building up the ~50mm with hardwood (glueing & nailing).
  -- My gut says that I should spend the extra £60 on the bigger door, as it's far easier to cut it down than to build it up.

• Should I cut a bevel into one / both edges? The University of Youtube has both and none of these being done.

• Cutting mortices and hinges - should I be investing in (really quite expensive for single use) jigs, or shall I make a jig myself. Or just eyeball it with a chisel.

I wish I had known about door blanks last weekend. I'm 90% of the way through making a hollow door covered in thin ply, it's worked relatively well so far but is very slightly bowed.

I think you should spend £60 extra on the door, I don't think it would be particularly time efficient to build it back up to a high standard. I'd have a go with a drill and chisel because most of the roughness will be hidden with the lock or hinges.

That's my usp. You though are particularly deserving of it. Thought you might hover around looking for a pile on?

It's actually easier to build up the edges as the cut edge is pretty rough. I have edged a lot of fire door blanks by gluing and pinning. Fit them a bit oversize and trim them to the faces with a palm router or plane. Clamps are very helpful, you can forgo pins if your clamping works well enough and that saves time on finishing and also saves you ruining plane blades or chisels if you need to work the edge.

Bevelling the edges is kind of personal taste. It helps to paint them. I might not understand what you're asking though. I run a plane down the edge or knock it off with a sander.

Making a jig is pretty straightforward. I bought some helpful bits and pieces because I do quite a few of them. Practice makes perfect with a chisel, I find it easier in hardwood (which I would use for the edges) because there's a more even grain.

Hopefully this advice is has the requisite amount of charm for the judges.

p.s. they are heavy. You might not be able to man handle an 8x4 one. I made 2 pairs of double bifold for a flat once and lost a few kilos from the effort.

That's not true. My first post laid out the problem with dealing with that size of project. The tooling, workspace, clamping all need to be bigger than the usual portable setups. It's not the kind of thing you want to attempt outside of a workshop because of the scale.

A skilled professional with portable setup would still find it very hard to do in situ.

I might be showing a bit of temper because it's fairly typical for a small group of otherwise successful people to think they can manage any job and anyone who tells them they can't or shouldn't doesn't understand them. In this case my advice has been you shouldn't take the job on. There is however a certain amount of bile now that it's been seen to be not helping enough. Have a read of this thread and see if there's another time I've told someone 'that's a bit too big for you to take on'. If you think it's not that big a job, lay it out step by step yourself .

However, the proof of the pudding is in the eating. I will be suitably impressed if these doors get made by Dammit.

To me it comes across as "who are you, IT Ponce, to think you can do what I do professionally, as a hobby/experiment, get fucked". And all the comments along the lines of "I've got your measure sunny Jim, I've shit more impressive carpenters" is, I think, backing that position up.

And now all the cock waving - would it defuse the situation if I said that I was very impressed with you and there was no need to feel that I was suggesting anything about your professional competence, or size of your manhood?

Forgot to add that the surface of the doors is also quite rough. If you don't want the industrial look even when painted it takes a bit of extra prep.

I will be suitably impressed if these doors get made by Dammit

He’s already commissioned me, along with an NDA. Anyone know a decent carpenter? Fucked if I know how to make these doors.

It's all in your head. It's genuinely a difficult job which you're underestimating because you don't know much about it.

Soul's comments should of confirmed that.

But you are a massive cock, that's for sure.

Tell me, do you roast coffee in your spare time?

Call me your carpenter, I fucking dare you :)

If he has it shows intelligence and capacity for self-preservation.

Don't worry about how to make them Brommers and chiroshi are going to give us all a step by step breakdown of the process.

Call me your carpenter, I fucking dare you :)

I'm never going to call you my carpenter, don't worry.

That fact has never been in doubt.