Home DIY

Not laughing :)

https://www.repair-care.co.uk/

The 92 is one of a few very worthwhile planes to own. You can remove the front of it. You would need to do a significant amount of finishing with chisels. I have been doing this kind of thing professionally for years but wouldn't consider this repair trivial. At the same time it's a small area. So it should be achievable. You will struggle with 2 part filler though.

I’d assume the batons and 90x20 fascia are sib. larch or western red cedar (not treated )- okay for external use particularly when stained /painted. Places that do larch and cedar cladding will have other planed boards for doing reveals and trims etc. Try silvatimber or Southgate timber.

a stanley no. 92

That looks lovely. And I just went down a slight antique moulding planes rabbit hole. I don't think I need any though.

They are a very good design. The moulding planes can be addictive. The results are amazing though. In situations where you don't have appropriate router bits or need a little more finesse they work very well.

Was someone on here talking about the CT1 silicon removal stuff? Got a job next week and if it makes my life easy ill order some.

It was me and I've kept a can about since it was released. Cut silicon out with an oscillating saw (special blades are available). Then use blue disposable tissue and this spray to get the rest off. Just go easy with the saw if it's a plastic shower tray, or anything plastic.

Any ideas on how to soften or dissolve intumescent acoustic mastic sealant? Preferably without horrid health effects...

I've not tried but this Multisolve product from CT1 might work. I would always cut as much as possible out first though.

Cheers, I will look into that.

Thanks for the tips on the commander strips!

I now have to deal with oiling my deck. I've been told I need a jet wash to clean, then deck oil and spray. That right?

Thanks @Airhead. Thought I’d scraped all the bubbles but more have been popping up post-showering. The paint was coming off in ribbons revealing the original paint underneath it.

Have you found the 123+ better than the normal stuff? When would you use Gardz instead?

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Garden wall looking incrementally more like a wall again.

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This should tell you all you need to know (Purile, and old, but I can't resist)

https://youtu.be/7-etIiYDpBM

I love it! I say it every time I say deck!

What's the best way to cut a handful of curvy shapes (think shoe insoles) out of 2mm aluminum sheet?

I have a hacksaw, 1010W 115mm angle grinder and Dremel but no tin snips or jigsaw. Guessing angle grinder is probably overkill for such thin material. Just buy snips? Splash out on jigsaw? Probably going to end up getting a set of files to clean up either way.

CNC plasma cutter. You know you want one really.

Obviously! Although maybe a little out of budget unless there's an Aldi/Lidl special...

Maybe a hackspace has one? Doesn't look like London Hackspace does though :-(

Maybe I could get a fret saw and some metal cutting blades. That's might be the cheapest and most useful option going forward.

Snips won't get through 2mm

Noted! No snips for me.

Waterjet will give a better finish. Or laser.

Jigsaw. But use a sheet of MDF as a cutting base otherwise the ali sheet is unlikely to be flat when you've finished.

Trying to float the idea of a laser cutter with the project owner. Hand saw/jigsaw at my parents seems to be the preferred option though.

On walls I would usually use Gardz which stabilises the surface, then emulsion. SOmetimes with bathroom you might want to use an oil based eggshell although that has wained in popularity, in that case I would use a primer like 123+ and maybe and undercoat from the same manufacturer as the eggshell too.

It looks like chalky paint/filler under the paint so gardz would be my first choice but 123+ is bootstraps in this case anyway, just more expensive and time consuming to apply.