-
• #30277
its the one that also rests on the floor, what a PITA!
-
• #30278
That looks like a Fischer Duopower. You can double stack them into the hole if your fastener is longer than the plug - have done this several times in dot and dab. Just snip the first mm off of the open end to get rid of the collar.
-
• #30279
they provided both so i imagine its supposed to be one, and not dot and dab, the depth between board and brick is too big, and you can hear the studs.
-
• #30280
There is a low expansion adhesive foam available, probably from the Forum's favourite building chemical company, Soudal.
-
• #30281
They are supposed to work on plasterboard, but hollow wall anchors are probably the safer bet.
-
• #30282
We give them a rub down with a bit of wire wool before it sets
-
• #30283
i thnk i understand the fixing, but do i need to drill the brick for the screws, or should i get shorter screws?
-
• #30284
As long as the screw is longer than the plug then it will work. Fischer give a min / max screw length for their plugs.
-
• #30285
Drilling the hole long enough for the screw sounds like a good idea
-
• #30286
The green Gripfill from Screwfix seems ideal - goes off pretty quickly but you've got a minute or so to squidge it into place. For a whole room you'd probably need three or four tubes but it's cheap.
Finished off with a squirt of caulk along the top.
I imagine if the skirting ever needs to come off it will bring some of the plaster/render with it though.
-
• #30287
Thanks, ordered
-
• #30288
The yellow grip fill is a bit nicer to work with as it has less (or no) solvent. Either one works unless you have curved skirting or walls in which case a screw is pretty normal. I prefer to plug mine properly or get them in a stud if it's a plasterboard wall.
-
• #30289
Big fan of CT1 now, expensive but better than anything else ive used.
-
• #30290
It's great and I do use it a lot but grip fill has a different quality that is useful with skirting.
Have you tried Multisolve, it's the spray made by the CT1 people that's brilliant at cleaning the last remains of silicon/mastic from baths/shower trays and many other uses. I carry one all the time now.
-
• #30291
I need to fit some fence posts along a tarmac Driveway. Does anyone know how to go about it?
Should I be digging holes and setting them in concrete or will bolt-down fence brackets be ok? And if so how do I fix them down? -
• #30292
I’d be cutting the holes in the tarmac where the fence is gonna be, digging holes and putting them in with post Crete.
-
• #30293
Aye, I would have thought tarmac would be too liable to crack and crumble with frosts etc (see: potholes). Plus, probably not a reliable/consistent depth.
-
• #30294
I don’t often do that job but could be handy to get some for the odd chance
-
• #30295
It's definitely one thing that it's worth having for. If you're changing wastes and taps it's useful.
-
• #30296
Post holes, concrete.
Paint the bit of the posts that’ll be in the concrete with bitumen (Black Jack) first.
Trowel the concrete so there’s a slight fall away from the post and it’s higher than the tarmac. -
• #30297
Thanks for the advice guys. You’ve confirmed what I thought was the right thing to do, I was asked to use post brackets.
-
• #30298
If you know there's concrete under the tarmac then use brackets fixed through the tarmac into the concrete. Otherwise, holes.
-
• #30299
Good deal on Makita 6ah 18v twin pack £150, selling fast.
Gone from 98 to 78 remaining while I bought mine.Countdown thing is clearly nonsense.Makita sale is only on today.
Cheapest I could find a 2 pack of 5ah recently was £137 and then they all sold out, so this seems like a really good deal. The rest of the Makita sale is a bit meh.
-
• #30300
Painting clouds!
I want to paint white walls blue but put cut out cloud shape adhesive patches on first to peel off.
Kids room I might add :)I'm not having much luck on my web searches.
Ideally I'd like a roll of something I can cut shapes myself.Can anyone help?
What type of shelving is it? If the brackets can work with it, as above I would try to get the plug in to the brick behind the plasterboard and use that to take the weight rather than the plasterboard itself. If that's a no go, hollow wall anchors are good (as above, again), but they are long, so you will need to drill out some of the masonry behind the plasterboard.
Dot and dab is a shit show really isn't it?