Home DIY

I have found easyframe good if you want to go online. I usually upgrade the 'glass' to a thicker one.

Not as nice as my local framers but the quality isn't bad at all, depending on the profile you pick.

I've used eframe a couple of times in the past and haven't had anything to complain about. Just choose style/size/mount.

london is bad not good, in this medium essay I will...

please do not @ me I will not be taking any questions

Are there any magic tricks to running cables without taking up floorboards etc?

Yes and no. Usually requires a good intuitive sense of what’s going on underneath the boards and behind the walls, and has varying levels of success. If I’m honest, I’d say that’s the trickier part of being a sparky!

+1 for hardboard then underlay then carpet. We've done that for a few rooms. Takes longer to cut down the odd shapes more than anything else. Also, if you have creaky pipes this is the time to yank up the floorboards and wrap them in wool.

the guy wasn't the best bless him

Sounds like a solid recommendation, want to PM me his details?*

*lol not really.

I've got someone else coming this morning who's also recommended so it will be interesting to see how they compare. Will probably get a third quote too, y'know, proper procurement process and all that.

He did a decent job in the end but was just in terrible shape so rarely managed a full day of work.

When do you start sharing your plans for the place? Coppermill soon yeah? I’d suggest this eve as the weathers nice but have a job interview tomo so prob best not.

The word "re-wire" came up in conversation yesterday so I'm going to wait a bit.....

Building some custom size boxes out of 12mm ply. They’re pretty functional, for storage on a kitchen rack, so was going to butt joint the front and back onto the sides, glue and screw, but I hear that screwing into ply edges is problematic. Does anyone have any advice on this? Current plan is to pre-drill at 2mm and use a 3.5mm Spax Wirox screw.

That’ll work well. I use carcass screws into the edge of birch ply with a 2.5mm pilot all the time. Just make sure they’re 25 or 30mm in from the edge

I want to make a small trellis for a climber. Something narrowish and different from the standard lattice.

Just as a sense check does this look a bit like a swastika? Or alternatively another far right symbol that if you posted it in the memes thread everyone would gun you for not knowing about?

Any other feedback on shapes or dimensions also welcome.

Cheers.

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If you moved the verticals to form 45 degree angles it could look cool

I didn’t immediately think you were a far right horticulturist but others might

Brilliant, thanks.

Cheers for the idea... And the reinsurance.

Quite a few Jewish people live in our area, so the last thing I want to do is make someone feel uncomfortable.

The frozen sausages should take care of that.

I hate working at home.
I just need to just come in for a pee, can I have a sandwich? What’s for supper?
This bathroom has taken me forever

DIY = Don’t Involve Yourself.

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I like the first photo, I should include more plants in my diy spaces.

🙂

This is part of the problem, years in the trade, but when I work at home I always go off half-cocked, don’t prep the space or put down dust sheets etc.

In too much of a hurry or being distracted.

Basic plumbing question: I'm building a lean-to shed. In the corner there is a 110mm drain in the ground where our waste water goes as the kitchen is on the backside of the wall. What's the best way for me to hook up an outdoor sink to this? I was thinking as the shed will be enclosed, I can turn it into an open drain and just have the waste pipe from the sink pointing into it. This is what my parents have at their place and having the open drain might come in handy in a shed with bikes hanging in it. Or would it be better to find the appropriate connectors and seal it in?

I have two bedrooms in my attic (the only bedrooms as its a fairly tiny Scottish cottage) - I'm trying to think of clever storage ideas as my daughter gets a little older so does her tendency to want/need things in her room.

I'm thinking about putting some inset storage into the eaves space but am wondering if I can trim/relocate the vertical "joist posts" (no idea if they are called that) to allow for a longer running piece of storage. Theses vertical posts are attached to the roof joists and then the floor joist and are also where the plasterboard is attached - so I'm assuming they are load bearing of some description but I'm thinking I could cut and relocate ~40cm to allow for a nice run of inset storage.

Something like this:

I guess I'm worried about trimming these post incase it has further implications though...thoughts?

(I'm not a builder or structural engineer, so any suggestions are entirely amateur at best)

Knee walls aren't structural as far as I am aware (although if it's an old cottage, I'd say all bets are off), although they do offer additional support.

If you're just taking out one of the uprights, and leaving all the rest, I can't imagine that you're going to be affecting the integrity of your roof.

If there's no header - chuck one in between the surrounding uprights. If there is a header, I reckon you'll be fine.

(But again, I'm not a builder or structural engineer)

Ah nice! never knew they were called knee walls!

A header between the two sounds like a good idea and I would probably insert a support in lieu of the knee wall support further back into a eave just as belt and braces.

I'm thinking about some kind of ikea hack here to save on cabinet building. Will report back.

Impressively neat tap alignment, very jelly, I forgot about tap alignment (with tiles) when planning mine.
I thought tiling straight on t oa wall was a big no no though? Especially around the wood window (which looks very nice btw).