Home DIY

Ok, wow.

It seems a lot less round than I imagine on seeing the images online?

1 Attachment

Yeah I thought that too. I’m glad though.

clear varnish

Good shout. Will check what I have in stock.

@withered_preacher any particular reason/experience why? The last mdf ones I did have held up fine. Albeit with clothes.

In any event, it'll be covered in stuff soon enough.

1 Attachment

Put a massive frame around it and coat with clear, matt varnish?

MDF isn’t structurally sound and tends to chip and look ratty pretty soon. If it’s well supported I’m sure it’ll be fine, I’m just prejudiced against it.

I expect that would be the cheapest option, but it might show up the curve in the wall a little more than we'd like.

Ripping it all off and starting over seems quite appealing at this point.

TOOL QUERY. As per my last post, I’m now the proud owner of a DeWalt impact driver. Do I need impact driver bits for it? I haven’t anything in particular to use it on at the moment but I like planning ahead and it gives me an excuse to browse tools etc 😁

How did they patch up? assuming dot and dab plasterboard and skimmed over

Looks like it. At least underneath the mark anyway. Can see a bit of plasterboard poking out the bottom and the original lime plaster is still on either side. Unsure if the plasterboard is up to the ceiling though. The wall is all over the place.

i would hazard a guess you'd needto seal the bricks somehow or tank it with a permeable membrane? someone might come along and say otherwise

Tapping around it, it sounds pretty solid where the dark part is. Hollow sound beneath it where there's definitely board.

Yes, unless you've got some hex-ended bits which will fit in the chuck. This or similar will be very useful, not least for actually reaching the screw heads, as a bit directly into the chuck without the holder is very stubby and tricky to use.

Whisper it, but I enjoy using mine to change disc rotors with the torx bit. Gently does it!

Thanks. I have the bigger set of those bits and a hex ended Halfords Professional set too so I’m good to go, when I work out where!😁

If they haven't put an impermeable membrane there, it's going to leach through - the efflorescent bloom is a give-away too.

You might be better off having a stud there, or insulated plasterboard. You lose a few inches of room, but you gain a lot of heat retention, and don;t have to worry about 100+ years of nasty shit discolouring your walls.

(You may have to think about how you ventilate though - I'm assuming it's an exterior wall, so condensation may be an issue if you have a stud / plasterboard against it)

Thanks. That's useful. We need to put a stud ceiling in, so a wall at the same time would be annoying, but easily do-able. It's on a party wall so I guess no need to worry about condensation?

Probably not, I'd guess.

You could probably just use foil-backed board too, as that's pretty impermeable. No need fpr insulation or studs.

Technically, normal hex bits aren’t impact rated and can shatter.

FWIW, I use normal Wera bits and just accept they’re disposable. And I have a big trend snappy set, and I just replace the ones that break/go missing.

I’ve often found that the black impact bits aren’t great to use. Although there may be brands that make good impact bits, all the ones I’ve tried seem to jump around in the screw head a lot.

Apparently the Wera ones have impact rated bits but like you they are a throw away piece and at the price the wera ones are they defo aren't throw away.

I’m thinking, as I don’t see it having much regular use, maybe use what I have and if they break, just replace them. Might be more expensive but not that expensive really. I have no real need of boxes of bits as spares albeit I have a few for screws etc.

Yeah I never quite got it. Although I never do anything where I'm driving massive fixings all day. I have noticed that massive 12 or 14 gauge screws will tend to explode a non-impact rated PZ3 bit fairly quickly, but I can almost count on one hand the amount of times I've done that in the last decade. For heavy duty stuff I imagine not having to change bits all the time would be helpful, but you can get a multi pack of Wera bits for about £8-9 for 30 bits, so 30p a piece, works for me.

Buy a set, preferably with more than one of each size, that way you shouldn't get caught out!

I only ever really use PZ2 for wood screws and PH1 for drywall screws. Torx are great but the multitude of different bit sizes does my head in. So I just buy a pack of PH2 and a pack of PZ2.

Yes, nefarious is correct. There is a product which I use for backfilling gaps before silicon and it's called caulk saver.

https://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/f/FOSSA_CAULK_SAVER_6_METER_ROLL/

Well if no one else went to A&E today I going to claim worst day!

Got a little too close to my table saw blade. Pretty much fixed it up myself but went to the professionals for a second opinion.

Top DIY tips for today.

If you are bleeding quite a bit from a finger dose it in tcp or similar get the skin back in place and wrap it, preferably in the tubular bandage especially made for fingers (it has an applicator that comes in the box). We should all have this to hand when we are working.

Stay safe and don't be like Airhead :)

Pictures of the injury are available but I'm sure no one wants to see that.

Ah sheit! Crap luck. These things happen to the best of us, hope it's not too serious.

Pictures of the injury are available but I'm sure no one wants to see that.

I want to see it, for science.

Ouch.

Glad it was nothing worse!

Super glue is useful too (particularly for Stanley blade / chisel injuries).

We need am injury pictures thread.