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I've got a single plug socket that I want to replace with a double. Problem is that the existing wiring is incredibly tight and I'm worried that any replacement I buy might have a different layout of connections and won't fit.
Would I be ok to wire the existing mains cable into a (15 amp?) terminal block, and then run short lengths of the red/black wires between that and the socket?
I had this problem replacing a double socket recently. I bought a crimping tool, crimps and some heatshrink to extend the tails. It's a really solid and building regs approved solution, plus it's useful kit to own in the long term. Check out TLC-direct for some good value kit.
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Right, I feel like a decisive blow has been struck in the war on mold today.
bought four of these:http://www.lakeland.co.uk/21538/Moisture%20Trap/all-reviews
Which if the reviews are anything to go by are pretty good. I'm off to Wickes now to buy these:
http://www.wickes.co.uk/pvcu-ventilation-lock/invt/159288/
ventillation locks to retro-fit to our uPVC windows. Heated towel rail is ordered from here:
http://www.tesco.com/direct/premier-electric-only-heated-towel-rail-50cm-x-110cm/781-3474.prd
Tumble dryer arriving tomorrow and I've made an executive decision to install one of these:
http://www.pulleymaid.com/classic_clothes_airer.htm
to the underside of the balcony above our little patio area. According to the lease we're not supposed to dry clothes outside but if I figure, everyone else does on their balconies and if I don't ask them, they can't say no.
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I'm now looking at butt splicing videos on youtube. Dangerously close to human centipede territory.
Yup, "butt connectors" are the ones for you. You'll need the proper ratchet crimping tool ( http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/DVDHCR15.html) but the joints will be really strong.
You may need two types of connector as the earth strand can be narrower. So 2.5mm blue crimp for live and neutral, 1.5mm red crimp for earth. Buy a few spare and a length of twin and earth to practice on. You may well also need some yellow and green sleeve for the earth wire inside the back box.
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all this cable splicing...
of course you're going to test the new circuit impedance to verify that the existing protective device will operate correctly..?
high resistance at terminals / joints is the cause of several building fires per year
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Just skim read the stove stuff so sorry if I am repeating. We had our Morso Squirrel installed a couple of seasons ago. They need to be installed by a HETAS registered installer, they take care of all paperwork with the council. If you are in a smoke control zone you will need a Defra certified stove, for wood it will need a hot air wash to burn the creosote etc in the smoke. If you dont comply it could be a pain in the arse if you leave when you sell.
If you have a multifuel stove (i.e. burns coal or wood) it will have two vents, one below the grill, one above. The vent below the grill should ONLY be used when burning coal which needs air to move up through the grill as well as from the top. When burning wood you should close the lower vent and use the top vent only. You should also burn wood on a bed of ash (have a couple of fire to build it up obvs) if you dont do this you will lose efficiency in your wood burn and can damage the grill itself.
It is possible to regulate the flow of air to create a slower burn to make your wood last longer, however, slow it down too much and you will deposit tar on the glass, its best to have a good supply of wood and allow the fire to burn properly and dont try to eek out the fuel, your stove will work much more efficiently.
If you do have a build up of tar on the glass DONT use scrappers or abrasive kitchen cleaners. Do this, it works incredibly well, get newspaper, screw into ball, dip in water, dip damp paper into ash in grate, rub over glass. You'll be amazed, it just falls off. I tried so much until someone told me that and its now a 2-4 min job rather than taking 30 and cursing why you choked the fire and built up the tar.
/stoverant
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I grew up in rural houses where you only had heating or hot water once you had fetched coal or chopped wood and lit the fire.
The best advice I can give is Fuck That Shit. It might sound romantic but the reality is its filthy, and hard work. Dust everywhere, beetles and other things in the logs, and you'll need solution to store and dispose of the hot ashes in this age of plastic wheely bins. Until we actually run out of the stuff I'll take gas central heating every single day of the week. You can have a nice warm home for no more effort than it takes to set up a direct debit.
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^ Both please. If I can choose, central heating to keep it decent, but double up with a wood stove for cold evenings / weekends
Yeah, I agree, our CH is good and you could do without a stove, but as its a Victorian house which needs plenty of ventilation, esp in winter, to have the extra warmth is great.
I agree, it is filthy and hard work but I've had them all my life and there is nothing like it really, I love the look and smell, makes it a really comfy home.
Unfortunately I am Brighton based, I used Bolney Stoves http://www.bolneystoves.co.uk/ who I couldn't recommend highly enough. Very pedantic, very knowledgeable which is just what you need.
It seems a pain in the arse to pay for installers etc. when a builder mate could do it, but fires aren't a DIY sort of job, you're dealing with something that could potentially kill you in a couple of bad ways CO poisoning and house/chimney fires and if you dont do it for a living and have the qualifications then dont do it. Get someone who knows what they are talking about.
Another thing to bear in mind is brick chimneys, they need to have a ceramic liner if you are using a burner, burner smoke is colder and moves slower up the flue, it can lead to gas and other nasties leaking through the lime mortar.
ffm
Mr_Sworld
Brun
dooks
Emyr
rive_gauche
errm_rich
Dammit
bq
kboy-
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@hippy
thanks