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• #24302
I’ve been in Matt black metal tile trim hell today! Finding a T joint or external cornering has been painful. Have a couple of people coming back to me tomorrow 🤞
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• #24303
That's really nice, but I'm confused as to what's holding it up.
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• #24304
Best ready mixed filler?
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• #24305
Prob too late but I’ve seen places where they don’t use any edging.
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• #24306
Battening out this wall this week... going ok so far.
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• #24307
Managed to make this in the same room, oddly not a pigs ear...
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• #24308
Magnets...
It's built into an "alcove" and the two side walls are load bearing, so there is a length of 5x2 bolted into each those walls. At the rear corners (now hidden behind wardrobes) there are vertical 5x2 lengths also bolted into the side walls sitting underneath the horizontal timber lengths and also underneath a length of 5x2 that runs across the back wall (but not bolted in as it's a stud wall). Near the front of the side horizontal timbers are two more vertical 5x2 lengths bolted to the wall and supporting them (you can see one, painted white to the left of the desk). Across the front is another piece of 5x2 screwed in and bracketed to the end of the side pieces completing the rectangular frame, but not really bearing much weight.
Running across the frame, from one load-bearing wall to the other, are three 5x2 joists on joist hangers anchored to the frame and cut into the wall. What you can see from the front in the photo is just the ply that I've cut and screwed to the front of the frame to tidy it up and stop anything from falling off the front of the mezzanine. The ply extends below the frame to hide the joists unless you're underneath it, just to make it neater. The height of the underside is 6'9".
I'll take a couple of photos to help explain.
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• #24309
These show one of the 5x2 lengths bolted to the wall with joist hangers and supporting upright
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• #24310
Thanks for the shoe suggests all! I thought I had a rather niche need but it seems we all the same.
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• #24311
On an external corner with the type of tiles pictured back thread??
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• #24312
Heres a link... https://b-vds.co.uk/projects/hoxton-house/
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• #24313
For what purpose - size hole, material, finish etc? Eg big exterior hole in wood or small hole in painted wall etc
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• #24314
This tile alignment makes me shudder
Also they are mummy and daddy ours our bricked and the crackle is and issue.
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• #24315
internaly wall, plastered plasterboard and filling hole where light switch has been removed
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• #24316
How much should I care about this sort of workmanship from my electrician? About 3 such locations. They've been under the floor running cables. I wasn't expecting the greatest of cabinet maker-esque craftsmanship but this is a particularly annoying effort, and it's the first thing you see when walking in my front door.
Gut feel is I should just chalk it up to experience and learn how to DIY a floor board replacement.
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• #24317
In my experience you'll need to make good bits like that yourself. You could argue that it's all part of the job but a lot of electricians have little or no experience in making good and see floorboards as structural not decorative.
Good news is you could glue those splits shut and use a floorboard nail to fix them back in, would probably stand out less than a new board.
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• #24318
Consider yourself lucky, years ago when we bought our house we had the electrical upgraded to 100amp service (the standard at the time). Seeing my FiL was a commercial electrician my wife insisted that his crew do the work. Not sure if it was because he didn’t approve of our choice or what, but they did a right crap job, bashing holes in the walls for receptacles, not labelling anything on the fuse box, not putting in separate lines for stereo and computer, et cetera...
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• #24319
Cheers, just what I want to hear. I don't want to be unreasonable and I don't think I can be bothered to make an argument about it. Appreciate the advice on repair. Sadly I'll have to do board replacement in some other locations I think, but there's a few other pre-existing locations where I could do with new boards too.
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• #24320
Ha ha - cheeky fucker. That’s a pisstake.
Probably best glued as Airhead said.
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• #24321
Ouch.
I don't want to disparage an entire trade. But perhaps there's some truth that sparks are normally clear of the site before the finishing and fine work happens.
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• #24322
Yeah they're coming back tomorrow to finish up (the job that they by no means mentioned would take more than a day!)
I'll probably only mention it if they ask for any comments :)
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• #24323
I wouldn’t expect an electrician to do a great job of making good. To expect that would mean to expect them to have competence in multiple other trades. I put up a picture and drilled a hole through a wire, nearly electrocuting myself in the process. The electrician came and dealt with the main issue, leaving a gaping hole full of wagos in the wall. I was happy to make good with various grades of filler.
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• #24324
Got a picture? Personally, I'd probably screw a square of plasterboard in the hole so its sitting just below flush, then fill over that with toupret TX 110 - one fill to get the gaps mostly filled, and a second to get it level and neat. You can bevel the edges to make filling easier. Putting a watered down mix of PVA on the plasterboard in the hole and on any exposed edges where you've cut the bevel will help prevent cracking too.
@Airhead will likely have a more refined method though ;)
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• #24325
OK. My plan was expanding foam to fill the hole, cut back and fill/sand/fill etc
thanks!