Home DIY

Nice work!

Awesome.

It that your lawn in the bottom right? It is all settled in ok now?

very much not diy, but we're having a new bathroom put in

tilers have been in today and obviously there's a fair bit of tile offcut in the skip at the front of the house. i can't help but look at that skip and just see a large yellow container full of my money.

it is what it is, but being the cheapskate and hoarder i am, i want to pull it all out and keep it somewhere in case it comes in handy. i've already salvaged a tragic amount of shit.

Now the covid run on outdoor freezers is over and I've remembered it's a good idea I'm back to making a shelf to go above.

I need to buy some screws. The brick is about 10cm thick and will be using 32x45mm batons.

What screws and raw plugs should I buy?

Cheers.

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I know exactly what you mean.

I did a bit of labouring for a bit and smashed out a fully tiled bathroom. Tiles not to my taste, but they were massive things that looked like decent quality.

Could hear my dad's voice over my internal voice saying "those are good tiles worth keeping". (he kept a single shoe for about 10yrs because it was decent quality)

https://www.toolstation.com/fischer-hammer-in-fixing/p25997

^reason we couldn't bring ourselves to buy anything other than a shiter wreck - there was an instagrammer up here who bought a house and ripped out a very high end kitchen (a 30-50k number)... some people

(her house was eventually on scottish home of the year - the renovation itself must have cost her 300k all-in, and that's not accounting for the stuff she ripped out)

Cheers. Had a look at a few videos and they look really simple.

Any thoughts these which don't need plugs?

(haven't considered length,etc. just mean this style)

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-120mm-100-pack/9008h

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Breakfast bar overhang of 300mm in 40mm thick solid beech worktop. Will I get away with this or should I add a supporting leg? (The overhang juts out from a 600mm deep base unit).

I'd say ask an engineer...
40mm solid beech is not going to flex much over 300mm, but the units only really support at the sides, right? or is there a rail at the back against the wall? I feel like fixing down to a rail against the wall would make a difference, also if you could add a rail along the top/front of the units but might not be space for that.
Is it block laminated? There could be risk of it splitting I guess, depending how much you load the overhang. 300mm doesn't seem that controversial though.

Would the saginator website be able to give you a rough idea?

I'd say ask an engineer...

Ha! I should probably get my calculator out. I reckon it rather depends on how heavy my cereal bowl will be...

Here's a rough sketch. I've got opportunities to add support/ legs later, so in some ways I'm just thinking out loud. It's Worktop Express beech, so staves glued together. Their assembly instructions suggest overhangs exceeding 200mm need a supporting leg, but then their documentation for those legs says they're needed for overhangs exceeding 300mm! Perhaps the confusion is between worktop thicknesses of 27mm and 40mm.

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Looks useful. I can do the calc myself, or input to the website (which I'd not seen before) but the determining factor will be how much load a worktop sees. That I don't know.

being pestered to consider redoing the bathroom - few questions

1. to tile straight onto the wall - do i need to do any prep - they were skimmed recently i presume from the previous owner - i think the only the wall where the sink/toilet and pipes come out is damp/crumbly

2. what is best to lay over the wooden floorboards - should i consider an aquapanel(?) pb or will mdf/plywood work, the lino in there currently sits on some ply wood

If you can fix it down at the edge of the carcass and the joint edge (especially that far edge), you've got a pretty doable 1/3, 2/3 cantilever there. I'd maybe not sit on it - I think you'd risk the joint edge starting to lift/split - but regular, ahem, breakfast activities will be fine.
An inbetween step rather than support legs, would be to use a couple of shelf brackets. Means you could move chairs in and out easily still.

Reassurance gratefully noted! :)

I used these when putting up some batons for kitchen cabinets (not in a kitchen) on brick. They were quite hit and miss. The ones that worked seems very secure but others just span, so maybe get a small pack and try first.

Ended up using decent rawl plugs and 100mm general screws (after watching a vid on youtube). Made sure i tapped in the plugs past the plasterboard. Worked everytime and seemed super strong at the end.

think this was the vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpjhQv8dj9U&ab_channel=BernieClark

What direction is the grain running? If left to right, I would think it would be ok. If top to bottom, I would be wary of the wood splitting along the grain.

Cheers. Currently hunting good videos on how to do this and get everything level.

Also this will be brick not plasterboard.

Top to bottom.

I might build a test rig using some offcuts to check!

If it were actually me, I would just not put my weight on it, but seeing as ms_com insists on using things like the plastic tray on our #buyer highchair to pull herself up off the floor, I wouldn't trust anyone else not to jump on it and snap it off.

This was into brick too (with plaster on top). I meant i knocked the rawl plug in past the plaster so it was sitting in the brick, but you won't have that problem.

👍

They’re dead easy, line up the batons and drill the baton and wall in one go with an sds and hammer the fixing in. The supports for the mezzanine bed I just built are fixed with them.

I’ve never used the concrete screws so can’t compare.

Now that we live in a world of Led lights is there a better, brighter alternative to the old school fluorescent strip lights for my garage?

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