Home DIY

Could be or maybe just a water tank that fed the cistern.

Anyone heard much about Schneider electrics? Looking to start replacing switches and sockets throughout. The dream would be MK Edge but they are seriously "40k kitchen" spendy. These guys are quite a bit cheaper: https://www.rselectricalsupplies.co.uk/schneider-flat-plate-light-switch-white-metal-1g-gu1212wpw_6174

Can't find much about them though.

I'm planning to remove the socket altogether. It's currently about 1.5m from the floor and is designed to allow for a TV on a wall bracket to use the power cable there rather than down where sockets would usually be.

In reality, for this TV, it will just get in the way of a total flush mount. I want to:

• remove the faceplate and backbox entirely / permanently and, at least for now, cover with just some masking tape etc
  
• use the plug sockets in my cabinet below by running the power lead, HDMI and ethernet leads through the wall from the bottom of the TV to the cabinet
  
  

Here's a super crude version of my plan with the existing TV in place...

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I've used a few in a previous house to replace old plastic switches. Seemed to be decent enough quality. Definitely better than the average stuff.

You won't notice the 1 mm, laser boy.

But the squeaky I get.

I would get some extra joist hangers and cut them up to make spacers to apply to the joists a spaced about a foot apart. I'm sure that would support the subfloor successfully without squeaking.

There are some issues with your plan but it doesn't matter much as it will all be removed before anyone else deals with it, at which point it will be pretty clear what's happening.

Having said that. You should not be pulling mains wires through the wall, it doesn't meet the regs (ok I've got that out of the way). Personally I would be running the TV power from the existing position by wiring the tv cord to the mains supply with the faceplate removed. I'm still not clear about the back box. Surface mounted or in the wall? If it's in the wall you would just use it to house the connectors.

Unless of course it's a special cable that provides power and signal to the tv, in which case of course you'll want to pull it through the wall and since no one will drill between the tv and cabinet it's unlikely to be a problem.

this plate on the back of a TV, part of a mount kit, is the way you do micro adjustments to the height right?

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If you’ve already mounted the bracket on the wall, it sounds like a sensible solution.

This pair of shit pictures shows what looks to be some dirty animal digging into or out of (aaaah!) The sewer in my back garden. The main drain cover is there you see.
How to fill that hole? Pack in the dirt and then cement/concrete/fire?

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Weather says sun until the weekend so time to get cracking with shed repair.

No idea why I've struggled so much with this. Well I do. The only place with the shiplap has a min spend the cost of a new shed, so I've had to buy the wrong size untreated plus we're social distancing and not everything is available locally.

Really fucking kicking myself over not buying the water butt kick from Screwfix yesterday as its now out of stock. So will have to put it together from individual parts. Don't suppose anyone knows if I don't seal the joins whether it will leak badly? Basically I want to be able to connect my water butt later without replacing the whole lot.

As you can see the water has rotted up through the bearer into the floor and wall frame in the middle ⅓. The rest is OK.


I've got some wood hardener coming midweek which I'll try and use to help. But ultimately idk what I can do. The shed is wired so I can't realistically move it. I've put a couple of desk fans down there, but wondering about running a big one inside.

My plan is to use this Cementone Roof Repair Compound for the bearers to prevent any future water transfer up. Due to the location/mini-H/time idk how I could get the wet bottom bearer off. Maybe the slight extra height of a new bearer and the rot will mean I can peal it off.

To get cracking on treating the wood I mixed some fresh engine oil with leftover Roseal fence paint and am leaving it to soak.


Then when the end seal comes I'll trim the bottom, soak the cut in the end sealer, lots of fence paint, then roof paint once it goes on.

Location is a mother fucker.

I'm planning on putting an inline extractor in the loft for our bathroom.

I was planning to use this . It has an over-run timer, but I presume that a humidistat would be more efficient? Is it worth it? and If so, does anyone have a recommendation?

After a corded random orbit sander. It's first outing will be a finishing sand on a floor (not a full blown floor sanding). After something of reasonable size 125-150mm. Will I just curse the extra weight and size of the bigger one? Am I just being seduced by the older style Makita tools?

I like these:
https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/makita-bo6030-6-random-orbital-sander-310watt-240v?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0Mb3BRCaARIsAPSNGpVISkEaMriclKiN_dEftpckstbwwi6CilnsCSn9XRHskzPfJCWipRMaArdhEALw_wcB

Smaller but newer model:
https://www.lawson-his.co.uk/makita-bo5041-5-random-orbital-sander-variable-speed-bo5041-240v-bo5041?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0Mb3BRCaARIsAPSNGpVY8KY54yl64m6Ny6x_aKR91yONT1zk9bgYFiF16K-wyABLOPn9pEgaAqscEALw_wcB

I have that newer one and think its great.

Used on all my woodworking jobs including processing scaffold boards into bar tops. Done 3-4 hour straight sanding sessions on it and didnt struggle at all (me or the sander).

I have the first one and it's bombproof. Dust collection bag is a but meh and the port won't connect onto my Bosch dust extractor hose without a reducer but other than that no complaints I use it for probably 2 hours a day when doing fine work so spread that over the 2.5 years I've owned it it's had a lot of trigger time without missing a beat. Best if all the vibration mitigation is still as good as the day I bought it. This wasn't the case with the hilti one I had previously that cost 5 times as much.

I think (but could be wrong) humidistat controlled in line units are few and far between and expensive.

You can pretty easily get humidistat controlled surface mounted units but they are easier to manufacture as the controller is built in to the unit. This is not possiblewith in line so the humidistat would have to be bought and wired in separately.

I've installed one of the ones you linked to in my house and it works great without the humidistat.

ultimately idk what I can do. The shed is wired so I can't realistically move it

If I were in this situation I'd try to lift that back edge and replace the bearer. Lift some floorboards inside the shed to access the slab and then make up one or more of these:

https://youtu.be/2UFFx7Sslzs

(You don't need a 1st fix nailer a hammer will do)

Bracing them off strong points in the roof to lift the wall just enough to slide the old bearer out and out a new one in. 10mm should do it but you may need to cut nails or screws; a multi tool would be useful if you have to do so.

We have the one you linked to in the main bathroom. Works well and the air pressure drop pulls the door open slightly if it's not latched shut.

It's noticeably quieter than this, which is in the downstairs loo still fairly powerful on full speed and half the price.

Cheers. I'll have a look at that and think about your post.

In case it wasn't clear from my epic post, I'm sliding new treated bearers underneath to replace the 4 (of 6) that are partially rotten.

So, replacing the fucked pine floor in my hall. Around the door frames I’m cutting the old boards back around 2cm so that the architrave is overhanging, leaving me space to slot the new boards under.

My concern is that some of the frame isn’t directly over a joist, and surely must rely on the floor between the frame and the joist for support. But obviously if I’m cutting that away, I’m taking away an amount of mechanical support. I’ve added this board to bridge the gap, is this right/sufficient?

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Internal doors don't sit in frames, the technical term is a door liner. The door liners are fixed to the wall they sit in by mechanical means (shimmed at fixing points to keep the liner straight and plumb). Traditionally this is done using masonary or cut nails, but now days using screws and plugs. These fixings are hidden either behind the doorstops on the frame (in the case of good chippies) or with filler.

I'd be surprised if they moved having been left without support.

Creating a more permanent working environment so I'm not sitting in a roasting conservatory and don't have to keep putting my work kit away (picked up dual monitors from the office today).
I've ordered some tongue and groove finished wood flooring for the top and 4 hairpin legs. Now where did I put that wood glue?

you can get the water butt kit from places like wilko for £6 IIRC

Sound. My confidence with this job is waning 😅

Hanging these hooks isn’t going to plan. Wall plug fail and the set that is up is wobbly. I’m thinking about attaching them to a piece of timber that I attach to the wall in four corners. Any advice? I guess I want it to be about an inch thick to screw the hooks into securely. Maybe I also need a new drill bit to help drill cleaner, deeper holes first time.

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Is that a plasterboard wall?