Home DIY

In Scotland?

Yes, we're in one of the sunniest locations in Scotland.

I need/want to get an internet connection to a “shed” at the bottom of my garden. It’s approx 25 m away from the back of my house and the router is at the front...what’s the best way to do this?

Have you got a power supply in there? If so then use a Powerline system.

Can you feasibility run a CAT5/6 cable into it?

If none of the above then WiFi repeaters as close as you can to it indoors.

Wifi link stations would do it
https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/store/wifi-links/wifi-building-links/

I can get a power supply in there. This might sound very stupid but would have extension lead work as a short term solution until we get an armoured cable fed down there?

Getting a Cat5/6 cable IS possible but quite an effort as I'd need to route it up into the loft from our living room (location fo the router) back down and into the garden through some trucking or some such...

powerline from router to back of house then cat6 out from there?

is there any reason why you cant have a wall with radiators on both sides?

I've got an internal brick wall with radiators on both sides... I'd never thought about it as a potential issue

Currently facing the prospect of re-tiling my bathroom, or paying someone to do it, as the grout is pretty fucked and allowing water ingress, so some tiles are coming unstuck.

Main hurdle is that 1. I've never done any tiling before (generally DIY confident though) and 2. it's our only bathroom. Is it ok to do it in sections, e.g. tackle the problem area first and then renew the tiles elsewhere another weekend, if I stop at the wall corners or something?

I've previously re-masticked the dodgy tiles as a sticking plaster repair, and I know the wall behind isn't great. Seen recco's on here for Wedi-board, but we also will probably move out of here within the next 3 years and money is a bit tight so I'm not sure if it's worth the extra effort

thought that might be the case but ive just not seen it anyways - i want to move from the radiator in the hallway to the other side and thankfully its the last rad in the system so pipework is fairly simple

Securing fence posts upright in spike holders... 7mm too big or just drive it through the metal too? Regular 5mm don't look heavy duty enough for the long term?

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Err I'm no expert on fencing but aren't the fence posts supposed to be tight to the walls of the spike holders? As far as I'm aware they're meant to be held in by friction, the bits of metal that are folded in where you're driving the timbalock are essentially there to increase friction.

If you are getting a proper electrical supply in then using Powerline solves the problem.

Are you just using the 'shed' for normal browsing? No intensive data?.

I wouldn't recommend a extension cable 'out of the window' (certainty not without a RCD) but I'm a sparks. And Powerline systems don't like extension cables.

I'm no expert on fencing

Me neither... they are 100mm posts in what were sold as 100mm spikes and the interference folds are holding them but not jammed upright solid, there is some play. I've stuck some 5 x 30mm screws in as a temporary hold for now.

Are you just using the 'shed' for normal browsing?

Is this a subtle way of asking if it's going to be a wanking shed?

Construction grade timber is often (actually almost always) dimensioned when it is very green. Therefore unless you're buying something like CLS (which is for studwork so all dimensions MUST be the same) the dimensions of the timber will change as it dries out / seasons.

TLDR it probably was 100mm when it was dimensioned but has dried out.

I'd knock some wedges / wooden shims down betwixt posts and holders.

Should I be able to replace the halogen bulbs in my kitchen's IKEA light with LED equivalents? Was looking at these but the two reviews don't inspire much confidence.

Transformer and current bulbs (x5) are as below. 50mm GU5.3 as far as I can work out. Don't need to be dimmable.

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It is old decking foundation I'm repurposing so makes sense, ta.

Good call, ta.

Normally the transformers don't play nicely with the much lower voltage with LEDs and you get loads of flicker.

You can add a ballast but it's probably more expensive than the light fitting.

If you read the small print it says the transformer is designed for 110w, 2 x 50w bulbs with a bit to spare. It does make it possible that the transformer will struggle with a 10w load.

Thanks both. Will stick with halogens.

Shop/garage vacs (or dust extraction) - seems to be an overwhelming choice. I want something mobile I can connect to tools for dust and also clear up shite from diy/etc when it’s escaped. I’ve been abusing Henry for this but something dedicated would be good.
Under a ton would be ideal...