Home DIY

Thanks! We take our bins out, we've had letters that say thats what they expect due to reasons you mention. We remember most the time.

I've got some curtain poles to put up, but there isn't space for the brackets between the coving and the archetrave.

Should I:

1. Put some MDF of the same width as the archetrave above it, and screw through the wood/archetrave into the wall?

2. Cut a section out of the archetrave or coving? (and if so, how?)

3. Something else?

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What if you put a strip of wood/MDF in the gap between the coving and architrave thick enough to bring the surface level with the architrave. Then attach another piece of wood wide enough for the brackets to attach to.

That way no damage to either architrave or coving.

Also could do stand-offs in the form of tubing of some kind.

1. Find a different curtain pole
   
   

What do the brackets look like?

I reckon you're asking for them to be pulled out of the wall, over time, doing that.

Shimming with MDF sounds least destructive, and can easily be changed back in the future.

Tried that. The problem is that the gap is small rather than the curtain pole having particularly large brackets.

The second problem is finding decent, affordable curtain poles for square bay windows - I can't really be too picky.

Mm, depends on how deep the bolts/screws go and the substrate I suppose.

Could you not have ceiling brackets?

Coving issue then.

Ok one for the paint people, and what I think is a really stupid question. Would mixing a paint as I added glitter and a little water change the paint finish from silk to matt?

Fair enough, in which case I'd go for a solution like @lynx suggested. Find a piece of timber that's wide enough to fit the bracket onto (and hopefully no deeper than the archtrave; plane/cut a rebate along the back top edge so that the bottom corner of the coving will fit into it; screw that to the wall (very firmly) then screw the brackets to that.

My front door is sticking. It seems to be the wood on the bottom half of the door (the side, not the bottom) is catching on the frame making it very stiff.

Just wondering what the best way of fixing this is and why it's happening. The door has been there donkey's years and is normally fine, why would it be sticking now? Is there anything I should be looking at beyond planing it down?
Cheers

EDIT: I wasn't clear but it's the latch side sticking which is part of what is confusing me.

Top hinge loose, making the bottom fall inwards towards the door frame? If nothing obvious, I'd plane it down and be done. Someone wiser/more knowledgeable than me might have much better suggestions.

Edit: I assumed it's the hinge side sticking, not the latch side. But I don't know how I arrived at that conclusion.

Screw the bracket to that, or through that into the wall?

I've had a proper look at the pole and instructions now, and only one bracket will need to be on that wall, the other four are on the sides which has no obstacles.

Also, although the bracket base is too big for the gap, the screw holes will all be inside it, which means I just need the wood to act as a kind of spacer to make the bracket flush. With that in mind, I might try and go straight through the wood into the wall.

Cheers. Ah, I wasn't clear. Unfortunately it's the latch side sticking so I can't see how something loose would cause that.

Our porch rises and falls with the seasons, unfortunately our door is on the same plane and periodically sticks so I have 3 positions where I can move the (enlarged) strike plate.

Can I do anything to these stains left by the old handles?
I’m afraid to sand through the veneer.

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Steam Iron and a towel?

You’d have to go pretty hard to sand through the veneer, but you’d also have to sand the whole front then re-finish it to make it look any good. Looks like nice cherry veneer though, could be worth it.

240 grit with an orbital sander, maybe start with 120 if it’s not doing anything. Keep it flat on the face and beware of the edges / corners, that’s where you’ll go through if you do.

Wet wipe. See if it removes the marks, if they are dirt/grime.

There are techniques which don't use sandpaper but it's very difficult to apply it to a small spot. If you take on the whole drawer front do you need to do the whole cabinet?

Screw the bracket to that, or through that into the wall?

Also, although the bracket base is too big for the gap, the screw holes will all be inside it, which means I just need the wood to act as a kind of spacer to make the bracket flush. With that in mind, I might try and go straight through the wood into the wall.

Sounds like you're there already, and FWIW I'd go clean through into the wall as well, but I'd also fit extra fittings to hold the timber to the wall elsewhere. Screwing the brackets through the timber into the wall could be a bit of a pain in terms of lining up the holes in the timber with rawlplugs behind, but worth it for the security. This solution is really just to avoid having to cut a notch into the coving.

Oxalsyre?

Someone on here posted something called. Tacker? For plaster board pics and stuff.

Can you link it again pls?

It's for the nice, but annoying to hang , Ribba frames from IKEA.